Leopard Gecko: Euplepharis macularius

Adult Size
6-10 inches, including the tail.

Life Span
These geckos are long lived animals, living up to twenty years in captivity with proper care.

Male/Female Differences
Males are slightly larger and bulkier than females. Mature males will also have a v-shaped row of pores above their cloaca (vent), and two bulges just below their cloaca caused by their reproductive organ.

Compatibility
Adult males should never be kept together, as they are territorial and will fight. However, a single male can be kept with multiple females peacefully, as long as the cage is of an appropriate size.

Origin
Leopard geckos have been bred successfully in captivity for some time. Many different colour morphs are now available. The lizard gets its name from the wild specimen, which is spotted.

Climate
Leopard geckos are desert animals.

Day Cycle
Like many desert animals, these geckos are nocturnal (awake during the night) in order to avoid the extreme heat of the sun.

Temperature
85-95° F during the day, with a decrease of ten to fifteen degrees at night.

Lighting
Like all lizards, leopard geckos require a source of UVB light in order to synthesize vitamin D, and properly metabolize calcium.

Humidity
These lizards are desert animals, and are accustomed to an arid environment. A small amount of moistened moss or vermiculite placed in the reptile’s den will create a small area of humidity (humidor) that will greatly ease the animal’s shedding.

Habitat/Territory
The deserts of Northeastern India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan, often found in caves and burrows.

Substrate/Bedding
A sand substrate appropriate for reptiles (either crushed English walnut shells or calcium sand) will promote the most natural behavior. Cage carpet or paper may also be used if it is changed frequently.

Hiding Place/Den
These lizards are naturally drawn to caves, where they will hide during the day. As previously stated, they will benefit greatly from a higher humidity in their den.

Cage Type
10-20 gallon aquariums are appropriate for adult geckos, more space always being better. If multiple geckos are to be kept, the cage should be accordingly larger.

Diet
Leopard geckos are carnivorous, eating insects and small mammals in the wild. Four appropriately sized crickets per day makes a sufficient maintenance diet. Meal worms and wax worms make great supplements, as long as the lizard is large enough to consume them.

Supplements
A calcium supplement is necessary to ensure proper bone development. A good vitamin A supplement (found in reptile vitamin mixes) will ensure proper health for your gecko.

Diet Precautions
Insects are only as nutritious as the contents of their guts. It is imperative to gut load them before feeding them to your gecko. The crickets should be housed for at least 24 hours with a high quality commercial diet, or an assortment of different foods (fruit one week, vegetables the next, or grains). The scrapings from your cutting board usually make great cricket food.

Feeding
Place the crickets in a bag with a light dusting of calcium and vitamin powder, shaking the bag to coat the crickets. When preparing worms, simply sprinkle the supplements on top before offering them to your gecko.

Water Source
A small shallow bowl that cannot be tipped over should always be available. Geckos are much more likely to drink moving water, and will appreciate water dribbled onto the tip of their nose from a misting bottle or drip cup from time to time.

Grooming
All aspects of the environment should be kept clean, sanitized with a 5% bleach solution whenever necessary. The animal itself is relatively low maintenance.

Oral and Foot Care
Mouth and foot issues are rare in leopard geckos and any concerns should be addressed by a veterinarian.

Proper Handling
Pick your gecko up from behind, so as not to startle it. Hold it firmly, but gently. Small children may want to hold the gecko (with adult supervision) over its cage, so that if they lose their grip, the gecko will simply fall into its cage. Never grab a gecko by the tail, as they can shed their tails as a defense mechanism.

Habitat Maintenance
Scoop sand daily. Replace the sand completely every four months or so, or whenever it begins to smell, and use this time to sanitize the cage. If using cage carpet or paper, replace whenever soiled.

Health Concerns
Metabolic bone disease results from an insufficient amount of calcium in the animals diet, or the lack of proper UVB lighting. If the animal looks listless, refuses to eat, or has soft or deformed limbs, consult your veterinarian.

Frilled Lizard: Chlamydosaurus kingii

Adult Size
Males about three feet (including tail), females roughly half that size,
weighing around one pound.

Life Span
Uncertain. Oldest in captivity lived 20 years.

Male/Female Differences
Males are much larger than females, have larger frills around the head, and more colour in their frills.

Compatibility
While reasonably tame towards humans, frilled lizards can be quite aggressive towards other lizards. While they may be kept together as juveniles, they should be separated before maturity.

Origin
Southern New Guinea and across Northern Australia. The frilled lizard is a strong icon in Australian culture, appearing on their currency and as the mascot of various teams and organizations.

Climate
Warm, varying between dry and wet seasons.

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day)

Temperature
Ideal 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit, with a basking point around 100 degrees.

Lighting
Like many lizards the frilled lizard is a basking animal. It needs exposure to UVB radiation in order to synthesize vitamin D3 and properly metabolize calcium. This is available commercially in fluorescent, compact fluorescent, and mercury vapor bulbs. Mercury vapor has the advantage of providing heat as well as UVB. These lights also emit UVA radiation, which is speculated to help your animal see its prey better and help regulate emotional health.

Humidity
Humid but not overly so, 70%.

Habitat/Territory
Savannah and warm tropical forest.

Substrate/Bedding
Wood chips, mulch, and moss provide a naturalistic substrate that helps to retain moisture and raise humidity. Many vets advocate the use of either cage carpet or newspaper, reduces the risk of impaction resulting from accidentally ingested bedding.

Hiding Place/Den
Frilled lizards are semi-arboreal and will enjoy a raised area where they can feel secure. Sandblasted driftwood or cholla (cactus skeleton) make great, natural-looking hiding places.

Cage Type
Juveniles can be housed in glass aquaria, keeping in mind that purchasing a larger aquarium up front will mean not having upgrade every few months. Adults should be housed in a cage at least 3x3x4 feet, similar to those used for adult iguanas or large birds.

Diet
Frilled lizards are primarily carnivorous, eating a variety of insects, spiders, and small vertebrates in the wild. An assortment of crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and eventually frozen mice if you wish will do in captivity. Be sure to gut-load your insects (feeding them a high-nutrition food for at least 24 hours before offering to your reptile) to ensure optimal nutrition. Insects should be pared with a small amount of dark leafy greens.

Supplements
The insects being fed should be lightly dusted with a calcium supplement 5-7 times per week, and a multivitamin supplement once or twice per week.

Diet Precautions
Avoid feeding exclusively one prey item, or only one type of veggie. A varying, rotational diet will result in the healthiest lizard.

Feeding
Feed 6-7 appropriately sized prey items per day. Leave a small dish of veggies to see if your lizard eats them.

Water Source
A large open pan of water is best, in which your lizard can soak and defecate. Misting the cage several times daily also provides ‘dew’ your lizard will greedily consume.

Grooming
As long as your lizard is properly hydrated it should shed its skin easily. If it does not, make sure the environment is properly misted and soak your lizard in a tepid bath. There are shedding aids to add to the bath available.

Oral and Foot Care
Placing rocks into your lizard’s environment can help to wear down its nails, but if they become overgrown you can bring them to Wilmette Pet
or your local herp veterinarian to be trimmed.

Proper Handling
Scoop up your lizard from behind holing it gently but firmly in your hands. Do not grab it by the tail or limbs.

Habitat Maintenance
Substrate should be changed out monthly if using mulch or chips, whenever soiled if using carpet or newspaper. Mist the cage daily, and change out the water daily or whenever soiled.

Health Concerns
Metabolic bone disease results from a lack of adequate calcium available to the body, either from lack of supplementation, over supplementation, or lack of proper lighting. It manifests as soft weak limbs and jaw, bad posture (lying flat against the ground), refusal to feed, and general lethargy. Keeping the cage to cool will result in malnutrition and possible infection. Keeping the cage overly humid can result in respiratory infection.

Blue Tongue Skink: Tiliqua scincoides

Adult Size
~20 inches, around eight of which is tail.

Life Span
10 to 20 years in captivity.

Male/Female Differences
There is no reliable way to sex juvenile skinks. Adult skinks are still quite difficult. Males tend to be bigger and thicker especially around the head and neck.

Compatibility
Skinks can be housed together without fear of aggression, however the mating ritual of skinks can be quite aggressive. This occurs only once a year and pairs are completely compatible the rest of the year.

Origin
Northern Australia

Climate
Warm tropical or savannah

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day)

Temperature
Mid 80’s during the day, with a drop to the mid to low 70’s at night.

Lighting
Like all lizards, Blue-Tongue Skinks need a source of UVB in order to synthesize vitamin D and properly metabolize calcium.

Humidity
Skinks appreciate moderate humidity. Light daily misting is excellent.

Habitat/Territory
Woodlands, grasslands, and brushlands. They are ground dwellers and burrowers.

Substrate/Bedding
Cypress Mulch (Bed-A-Brick) or wood chips provide the most natural environment. Cage carpets are also very effective and easy to keep clean.

Hiding Place/Den
Skinks are big burrowers and love artificial hiding places. These can be purchased premade or constructed yourself by stacking rocks or driftwood.

Cage Type
10-20 gallon tanks are suitable for babies. Adults should be housed in 40 breeder tanks, or something of similar size and dimension, with a large amount of ground space.

Diet
Skinks are true omnivores and should be fed a diet consisting of about 60% meat items (e.g. crickets, superworms, pinkie mice) and 40% plant items (e.g. dark leafy greens, berries are especially relished)

Supplements
A calcium supplement should be provided, and a reptile vitamin containing
vitamin D³.

Diet Precautions
Do not feed frozen vegetables, as this can lead to thiamin deficiency. Do not overfeed vegetables high in phosphorus, such as broccoli, spinach, or kale.

Feeding
The lizard should be fed every day. Most people find the most convenient way to be sure your lizard is getting all it needs is to alternate crickets one day with worms and greens the next.

Water Source
The water bowl should be large, as skinks like to bathe in their water, and should be changed often, as they have a tendency to defecate in it.

Grooming
Very little in the way of grooming is required. A weekly soak in tepid water would help to keep the lizard clean and hydrated.

Oral and Foot Care
No special requirements.

Proper Handling
Your skink should be scooped from underneath and behind, so as not to frighten it. It should be held firmly but gently with two hands.

Habitat Maintenance
Remove feces and change water daily. Substrate should be changed every four to six weeks, or when it begins to smell.

Health Concerns
Calcium deficiency or lack of proper lighting can lead to metabolic bone disease, characterized by soft, weak jaw or limbs, a slouched posture, inactivity, or refusal to feed.