Blue-Tongued Skink Care

Oct 162011
 

Blue Tongue Skink: Tiliqua scincoides

Adult Size
~20 inches, around eight of which is tail.

Life Span
10 to 20 years in captivity.

Male/Female Differences
There is no reliable way to sex juvenile skinks. Adult skinks are still quite difficult. Males tend to be bigger and thicker especially around the head and neck.

Compatibility
Skinks can be housed together without fear of aggression, however the mating ritual of skinks can be quite aggressive. This occurs only once a year and pairs are completely compatible the rest of the year.

Origin
Northern Australia

Climate
Warm tropical or savannah

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day)

Temperature
Mid 80’s during the day, with a drop to the mid to low 70’s at night.

Lighting
Like all lizards, Blue-Tongue Skinks need a source of UVB in order to synthesize vitamin D and properly metabolize calcium.

Humidity
Skinks appreciate moderate humidity. Light daily misting is excellent.

Habitat/Territory
Woodlands, grasslands, and brushlands. They are ground dwellers and burrowers.

Substrate/Bedding
Cypress Mulch (Bed-A-Brick) or wood chips provide the most natural environment. Cage carpets are also very effective and easy to keep clean.

Hiding Place/Den
Skinks are big burrowers and love artificial hiding places. These can be purchased premade or constructed yourself by stacking rocks or driftwood.

Cage Type
10-20 gallon tanks are suitable for babies. Adults should be housed in 40 breeder tanks, or something of similar size and dimension, with a large amount of ground space.

Diet
Skinks are true omnivores and should be fed a diet consisting of about 60% meat items (e.g. crickets, superworms, pinkie mice) and 40% plant items (e.g. dark leafy greens, berries are especially relished)

Supplements
A calcium supplement should be provided, and a reptile vitamin containing
vitamin D³.

Diet Precautions
Do not feed frozen vegetables, as this can lead to thiamin deficiency. Do not overfeed vegetables high in phosphorus, such as broccoli, spinach, or kale.

Feeding
The lizard should be fed every day. Most people find the most convenient way to be sure your lizard is getting all it needs is to alternate crickets one day with worms and greens the next.

Water Source
The water bowl should be large, as skinks like to bathe in their water, and should be changed often, as they have a tendency to defecate in it.

Grooming
Very little in the way of grooming is required. A weekly soak in tepid water would help to keep the lizard clean and hydrated.

Oral and Foot Care
No special requirements.

Proper Handling
Your skink should be scooped from underneath and behind, so as not to frighten it. It should be held firmly but gently with two hands.

Habitat Maintenance
Remove feces and change water daily. Substrate should be changed every four to six weeks, or when it begins to smell.

Health Concerns
Calcium deficiency or lack of proper lighting can lead to metabolic bone disease, characterized by soft, weak jaw or limbs, a slouched posture, inactivity, or refusal to feed.

Inland Bearded Dragon Care

Oct 162011
 

Inland Bearded Dragon: Pogona Vitticeps

Adult Size
16 – 20 inches, including the tail.

Life Span
6-10 years.

Male/Female Differences
Examining the base of the tale, just below the vent, more developed bearded dragon males (over 8″) will show two clear bulges, while females will have only one, or none. Males will be more dominant, and more likely to exhibit dominance behavior, such as head bobbing or darkening of the beard, but females will also display these behaviors to a lesser degree.

Compatibility
Bearded Dragons are social animals, and if of the same size can be housed together. The animals should be monitored, however, as sexually mature males will almost certainly fight.

Origin
These friendly lizards were easily absorbed into the pet trade because of their highly social nature, their calm and peaceful demeanor, and their willingness to breed in captivity.

Climate
Arid woodlands and deserts of Central Australia

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day, asleep at night)

Temperature
90 – 100 degrees F during the day, down to low 80’s at night. A gradient of temperatures should be provided across the environment, with areas to bask or shade, so the beardie can regulate his or her own body heat.

Lighting
Like all lizards, bearded dragons require a source of UVB light in order to synthesize vitamin D, and properly metabolize calcium.

Humidity
Beardies are arid animals and do not require high humidity. Light misting when the animal is shedding, however, will help ensure a clean and healthy shed.

Habitat/Territory
Eastern and Central Australia. Often found basking on rocks or bushes during the day, or burrowing into the ground in extreme heat.

Substrate/Bedding
A sand substrate appropriate for reptiles (either crushed English walnut shells or calcium sand) will promote the most natural behavior. Cage carpet or paper may also be used if it is changed frequently.

Hiding Place/Den
A natural wood or stone den will provide the beardie a place upon which to climb to get closer to the heat source, or under which to hide to shade itself.

Cage Type
10 – 20 gallon aquariums are appropriate for juveniles. Adult beardies should be maintained in 40 breeder or 55 gallon tanks. As with most animals, the larger the environment, the better.

Diet
Bearded dragons are omnivores. Their diet should consist of approximately 80% animal matter (e.g. crickets, meal worms, super worms, earthworms, pinky mice etc.) and 20% vegetable matter. Most of our customers find it easiest to provide crickets one day, and the next an assortment of dark leafy greens topped with meal worms to entice the beardie to eat its vegetables.

Supplements
A calcium supplement is necessary to ensure proper bone development. A good vitamin A supplement (found in reptile vitamin mixes) will ensure proper health for the beardie.

Diet Precautions
Insects are only as nutritious as the contents of their guts. It is imperative to gut load them before feeding them to your beardie. The crickets should be housed for at least 24 hours with a high quality commercial diet, or an assortment of different foods (fruit one week, vegetables the next, or grains). The scrapings from your cutting board usually make great cricket food.

Feeding
Place the crickets in a bag with a light dusting of calcium and vitamin powder, shaking the bag to coat the crickets. When preparing worms or greens, simply sprinkle the supplements on top before offering them to your beardie.

Water Source
A small shallow bowl that cannot be tipped over should always be available. Beardies are much more likely to drink moving water, and will appreciate water dribbled onto the tip of their nose from a misting bottle or drip cup from time to time.

Grooming
All aspects of the environment should be kept clean, sanitized with a 5% bleach solution whenever necessary. Some beardies nails may grow excessively long in captivity, and can be cut by your veterinarian, or by us at Wilmette Pet.

Oral and Foot Care
Excessively long nails are a rare problem in pet beardies. Keeping a rough stone in the animals enclosure can help to naturally wear them down. If you are concerned about their length, bring your pet into us and we will trim its nails.

Proper Handling
Juveniles may be somewhat skittish, but all in all, beardies are quite docile animals. Place your hand under the beardie’s main body mass and gently scoop it up, keeping a firm but gentle grip, or placing the animal against your chest. Never pick up a beardie by the tail.

Habitat Maintenance
Scoop sand daily. Replace the sand completely every four weeks or so, or whenever it begins to smell, and use this time to sanitize the cage. If using cage carpet or paper, replace whenever soiled.

Health Concerns
Metabolic bone disease results from an insufficient amount of calcium in the animals diet, or the lack of proper UVB lighting. If the animal looks listless, refuses to eat, or has soft or deformed limbs, consult your veterinarian.

Anole Care

Oct 162011
 

Anole: Anolis carolinenis

Adult Size
6+”, males up to 8:

Life Span
4 Years, possibly longer in captivity

Male/Female Differences
Males anoles are larger than females and have a dewlap, a flap of skin at the base of the throat. Males have a more oblong skull than a female does.

Compatibility
Males fight for territory, so keep a few females for each male. Mixes well with other lizards or amphibians, like tree frogs, that have the same needs and are not large enough to eat them.

Origin
Southeastern United States.

Climate
Hot and humid tree tops and bushes.

Day Cycle
Crepuscular, being more active in the morning and the evening.

Temperature
Maintain a temperature of 80 degrees or higher. Low temperatures adversely effect their energy and digestion. Use a combination of a heating pad and basking lamps to
provide daytime heat, and just the heating pad at night to maintain at least 70 degrees.

Lighting
UVB lighting is needed to stimulate a natural environment, to stimulate hunger, and to help assimilate calcium and vitamin D3. Provide a small basking lamp above branches to allow them to warm up.

Humidity
Keep humid; either mist with a spray bottle several times a day or install an automatic misting device. Providing a waterfall not only provides a drinking place for the anole but also increases humidity.

Habitat/Territory
These small fast lizards make their home among the leaves and vines of trees.

Substrate/Bedding
Substrate is less important here as these lizards will spend almost all of their time in the plants or on the walls. Gravel can be used, as it is easy to clean, while shredded coconut bark helps maintain humidity. Cage carpet can be used as it
is easy to clean and reduces mites. Cover with moist moss to maintain humidity.

Hiding Place/Den
Provide plenty of hiding places with plants, either real or artificial, rocks, wood, vines, or even baffles made of cage carpet.

Cage Type
Glass terrariums are ideal for anoles, as they hold in humidity and are easy to clean. It should be large enough to create plenty of hiding places. Aquariums can be used, too.

Diet
Anoles are insectivores, so feed small crickets, a few mealworms, and flightless fruit flies. Anoles are also nectar drinkers, and can be fed small pieces of fruit and small amounts of fruit puree, such as baby food. These foods must be removed soon or they will attract fruit flies (which can be eaten by the anoles).

Supplements
Additional calcium and vitamin powder can be lightly dusted over the crickets occasionally – it is recommended to alternate days of vitamin powder and calcium powder. Since crickets are naturally high in phosphorus, choose a
calcium powder that lacks that mineral.

Diet Precautions
Too much phosphorus, as excess phosphorus will be absorbed instead of calcium. Avoid too many mealworms, as these are hard to digest.

Feeding
Feed about 3 small crickets a day. Gut load the crickets with nutritious cricket food to give additional vitamins and minerals to your anole.

Water Source
Anoles rarely drink from water bowls. Mist several times a day or use a slow drip system to mimic the dew they drink in the wild. A waterfall also provides a drinking place.

Grooming
Anoles need humidity to help shed their skins. Their grooming needs are minimal.

Oral and Foot Care
Toes can get caught in loose strands of cage carpeting; check your cage carpet when you clean it. Anoles can develop mouth rot from unsanitary conditions.

Proper Handling
Most anoles are nervous and very fast, making them difficult to hold. When tame and used to you, they can sit in your hand. Handle gently, as their tale can snap off as a defense mechanism.

Habitat Maintenance
Clean the cage weekly, spot clean soiled areas daily.

Health Concerns
Dehydration is a risk as these lizards need moisture.

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