Hedgehog Care

Nov 162011
 

Download this care sheet (pdf)

African dwarf hedgehog, white bellied hedgehog

Atelerix sp.

Adult Size
1 pound, 6 inches Life Span 8 – 10 years

Male/Female Differences
A penis sheath is present and testes can be obvious in males. In young hedgehogs, sexing is done by eyeing the distance between the urethra and the anus; the distance is further apart in males.

Compatibility
Hedgehogs are solitary animals. Males will fight by lowering the spines over their eyes as a sort of visor and charge each other. House all hedgehogs, males and females, separately.

Origin
Senegal in west Africa east to southern Somalia and Tanzania on the continent’s eastern edge

Climate
Average house temperatures are fine. Avoid extremes; high heat can cause strokes and low temperatures can lead to hibernation, a state the animal is not prepared for that can be fatal.

Day Cycle
Normally nocturnal, can switch to days.

Temperature
60 – 75 Degrees is ideal.

Lighting
Normally lighting is not an issue, as these animals are nocturnal. If switched to a diurnal cycle, avoid intense lighting, as hedgehogs have sensitive eyes.

Humidity
Being from such a dry climate, hedgehogs prefer lower humidity but can tolerate most indoor conditions.

Habitat/Territory
Native to arid scrub- and grassland in northern Africa, these animals are also burrowers. They will root and dig around their cages in the substrate.

Substrate/Bedding
Low dust litters, such as recycled paper products and pelleted litter, can be used. Avoid shaved aspen, sand, or small grained litter as this can get under the spines and cause irritation. Corn cob should not be used as it can harbor mold spores.

Hiding Place/Den
Wooden house make great, safe, and secure sleeping places – mimicking their natural burrows.

Cage Type
Cages with easily cleaned plastic bottoms and airy wire tops make great homes. The larger the better – There should be room for the larger plastic exercise wheels. Hedgehogs love to climb (despite their squat, bulky shape), so ramps or ladders allow for more exercise and fun. Cat toys can be used for toys.

Diet
Naturally insectivorous in the wild, most of their nutritional needs can be met with pelleted foods made specifically for hedgehogs . Live insects such as wax worms, super worms, and crickets offer fresh nutrition (especially gut loaded insects.)

Supplements
Extra protein in the form of soft scrambled eggs, canned dog or cat food, or freeze dried treats can be offered. Dark leafy greens, vegetables, and soft fruits, offered sparingly, can add variety to their diet, as can small amounts of cooked meat. Prepackaged pasta mixes and vegetable mixes can be served dry or warm. Enzymes help hedgehogs get more nutrition out of their foods.

Diet Precautions
Obesity can occur from over feeding and lack of exercise. Even though hedgehogs love milk and cheese, these should never be fed as these animals are lactose intolerant. Meal worms can cause obesity.

Feeding
Hedgehogs are awake when their food is awake. In the wild, this is at night. By removing food at night and replacing it during the day at home switches their schedule to match yours. Food should be served room temperature or warmed; cold food from the refrigerator can cause digestive upset.

Water Source
Water bottles stay cleaner than water dishes, as hedgehogs can kick substrate into it.

Grooming
Hedgehogs groom themselves. The need a bath once or twice a year, using mild baby shampoo.

Oral and Foot Care
Long nails need to be trimmed, a tricky task that should be done by someone with experience (your vet or Wilmette Pet). Hedgehogs have no real oral problems.

Proper Handling
Startled or scared hedgehogs are so defensive that handling them is uncomfortable. They can be then scooped up with a flat spatula or towel. Calm, relaxed hedgehogs are active and very handlable and seem to enjoy climbing over and around your hand. When startled they can roll up and raise their spines, making it likely they will be dropped, so keep them close to the ground. Do not use gloves, as this prevents the hedgehog from becoming accustomed to your scent.

Habitat Maintenance
Being desert animals hedgehogs are fairly clean. Spot clean daily and replace substrate weekly. Hedgehogs can be trained to the litter pan in their cage; place soiled bedding for scent.

Health Concerns
Check new hedgehogs for signs of fleas or mites. Hedgehogs are pretty hardy animals. Respiratory problems can result from lack of ventilation and unclean homes. A condition hedgehog breeders must watch out for is called Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome (WHS), a neurological condition similar to MS in humans. Hedgehogs can occasionally suffer from congenital cancers.

Gerbil Care

Nov 162011
 
Gerbil Care and Feeding

Gerbil, Meriones unguiculatus

Download this care sheet (pdf)

Adult Size
6 – 12 inches, including tail

Life Span
2 – 4 years

Male/Female Differences
Sexing gerbils is done by eyeing the distance between the urethra and the anus; the distance is further apart than females. Both are equally handleable. Females may be more defensive while trying to nest or raise its young.

Compatibility
Gerbils from the same litters are most compatible. Males mix together well. Females may fight to establish dominance as they are more territorial than males.

Origin B
reeding groups originally exported from Mongolia

Climate
Home temperature is preferred.

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day)

Temperature
60 – 75 degrees, avoid extremes.

Lighting
Low to normal lights are preferred, as bright lights can hurt sensitive eyes.

Humidity
Drier is better, but adapt to indoor humidity. Avoid extreme humidity, as it can lead to health problems.

Habitat/Territory
Semi-desert and arid steppes, in burrows. Plastic tubes recreate these in the cage.

Substrate/Bedding
Provide a safe and soft bedding, the less dusty the better. Cedar bedding can be toxic and pine too dusty. Good litters are shredded or pelleted aspen or recycled paper products. Supply nesting materials and dry hays.

Hiding Place/Den
Wooden house and coconut huts offer hiding places and the chance to chew. Plastic hamster tubes can be used, but will eventually be destroyed.

Cage Type
Aquariums, plastic cages with tube accessories, or wire. All should be escape proof, ventilated, and easy to clean. Gerbils love to wander at night. Supply the largest cage that’s possible.

Diet
A few critter cubes and 1-2 tbls of high quality hamster seed mix is given as a staple. Being desert animals, fruits and vegetables may be too rich for their diets and should be offered sparingly. Sunflower seeds are favorites and can be used as rewards (pick out of seed mixes and save for later.)

Supplements
Vitamins in water help supply nutrients missing from captive diets. Treat sticks made of seeds and honey are good treats. Yoghurt-covered fruit bits can help maintain intestinal florae.

Diet Precautions
Overfeeding and lack of exercise can lead to obesity. Vitamin supplements only need to offered to unhealthy gerbils or to ones with restricted diets.
Feeding Placing food in a bowl will help prevent over feeding. Gerbils will move most of their food into their nest and bury it for later.

Water Source
Water dishes can easily become soiled, so water bottles are preferred. As gerbils can quickly chew most plastic bottles, rounded bottles or metal sleeves will last longer.

Grooming
These desert animals are relatively clean, and, when kept in groups, groom each other as part of their social interaction. Offer chinchilla dust for bathing; they use this to remove excess oils from their fur.

Oral and Foot Care
The gerbil’s teeth continue to grow. Malocclusion can occur when opportunities to gnaw are not offered. Care with wheels needs to be taken, as wire wheels can trap and seriously injure tails and feet; plastic or safety wheels should be used.

Proper Handling
Social animals, they love to be handled, and are very curious about people. Care needs to be taken initially as startled gerbils are quick and can jump quite high. Tame gerbils rarely bite unprovoked. Do not pick a gerbil up by its tail. Their tails are fragile and this could cause damage.

Habitat Maintenance
Weekly cleaning of the cage is needed, with daily spot cleaning of toilet areas. Being desert animals, they produce little waste and usually eliminate in the same area.

Health Concerns
Diarrhea can be a problem. This can be caused by improper diet or dirty cages. Respiratory problems can be due to improper ventilation and dirty bedding. Obesity can be a problem when fed unhealthy, unbalanced diets.

Fat-Tailed Jird

Nov 052011
 

Download this care sheet (pdf)

Fat tailed gerbils, Duprasi Gerbil, Beer Mat Gerbil

Adult Size
4 inches, plus 2 inch tail

Life Span
5 to 7 years in captivity

Male/Female Differences
Sexing fat tailed jirds is done by eyeing the distance between the urethra and the anus; the distance is further apart than females. Both are equally handleable. Females can get defensive when raising young.

Compatibility
Fat tailed jirds are social animals. Females can live in groups while males need to be housed singly. They can also live alone, given enough interaction with you. Housing breeding pairs is difficult because of the defensiveness of females guarding the nest.

Origin
Originally from Northern Sahara (Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, and Algeria.)

Climate
Home temperature is preferred.

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day), although they sleep a lot.

Temperature
60 – 75 degrees, avoid extremes.

Lighting
Low to normal lights are preferred, as bright lights can hurt sensitive eyes.

Humidity
Drier is better, but adapt to indoor humidity. Avoid extreme humidity, as it can lead to health problems.

Habitat/Territory
Rocky deserts and sand plains with little vegetation are the homes to fat tailed jirds.

Substrate/Bedding
Provide a safe and soft bedding, the less dusty the better. Cedar bedding can be toxic and pine too dusty. Good litters are shredded or pelleted aspen or recycled paper products. Supply nesting materials and dry hays.

Hiding Place/Den
Wooden house and coconut huts offer hiding places and the chance to chew. Plastic hamster tubes can be used, but will eventually be destroyed.

Cage Type
Aquariums, plastic cages with tube accessories, or wire. All should be escape proof, ventilated, and easy to clean. Supply the largest cage that’s possible.

Diet
A few critter cubes and 1-2 tbls of high quality hamster seed mix is given as a staple. Being desert animals, fruits and vegetables may be too rich for their diets and should be offered sparingly. Sunflower seeds are favorites and can be used as rewards (pick out of seed mixes and save for later.)

Supplements
Vitamins in water help supply nutrients missing from captive diets. Treat sticks made of seeds and honey are good treats. Yoghurt-covered fruit bits can help maintain intestinal florae.

Diet Precautions
Overfeeding and lack of exercise can lead to obesity. Vitamin supplements only need to offered to unhealthy fat tailed jirds or to ones with restricted diets. Avoid sunflower seeds. These can be picked out of seed mixes and fed sparingly as treats.

Feeding
Placing food in a bowl will help prevent over feeding. Fat tailed jirds will move most of their food into their nest and bury it for later.

Water Source
Water dishes can easily become soiled, so water bottles are preferred. To avoid the fat tailed jird chewing on the plastic, use rounded bottles or metal sleeves.

Grooming
These desert animals are relatively clean, and, when kept in groups, groom each other as part of their social interaction. Offer chinchilla dust for bathing; they use this to remove excess oils from their fur.

Oral and Foot Care
The fat tailed jird’s teeth continue to grow. Malocclusion can occur when opportunities to gnaw are not offered. Fruit twigs make great treats, as they both trim the fat tailed jird’s teeth and offer a source of additional vitamins. Care with exercise wheels needs to be taken, as wire wheels can trap and seriously injure tails and feet; plastic or safety wheels should be used.

Proper Handling
Fat tailed jirds are very handleable and rarely bite. Handle gently to avoid startling the animal.

Habitat Maintenance
Weekly cleaning of the cage is needed, with daily spot cleaning of toilet areas. Being desert animals, they produce little waste and usually eliminate in the same area.

Health Concerns
Diarrhea can be a problem. This can be caused by improper diet or dirty cages. Respiratory problems can be due to improper ventilation and dirty bedding. Obesity can be a problem when fed unhealthy, unbalanced diets. Sick jirds usually have thin tails, as this is where they store fat and water.

Special: EVO & California Natural Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

Oct 312011
 

EVO and California Natural Grain Free dry dog foods
High protein, grain free foods, just as nature intended.
Purchase any flavor EVO or California Natural Grain Free dog food and:


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Stop by and ask for a sample!

Red Meat, Herring & Salmon, California Natural Lamb Meal

No coupon needed to get sale price!

Expires November 4th, 2011

Anole Care

Oct 162011
 

Anole: Anolis carolinenis

Adult Size
6+”, males up to 8:

Life Span
4 Years, possibly longer in captivity

Male/Female Differences
Males anoles are larger than females and have a dewlap, a flap of skin at the base of the throat. Males have a more oblong skull than a female does.

Compatibility
Males fight for territory, so keep a few females for each male. Mixes well with other lizards or amphibians, like tree frogs, that have the same needs and are not large enough to eat them.

Origin
Southeastern United States.

Climate
Hot and humid tree tops and bushes.

Day Cycle
Crepuscular, being more active in the morning and the evening.

Temperature
Maintain a temperature of 80 degrees or higher. Low temperatures adversely effect their energy and digestion. Use a combination of a heating pad and basking lamps to
provide daytime heat, and just the heating pad at night to maintain at least 70 degrees.

Lighting
UVB lighting is needed to stimulate a natural environment, to stimulate hunger, and to help assimilate calcium and vitamin D3. Provide a small basking lamp above branches to allow them to warm up.

Humidity
Keep humid; either mist with a spray bottle several times a day or install an automatic misting device. Providing a waterfall not only provides a drinking place for the anole but also increases humidity.

Habitat/Territory
These small fast lizards make their home among the leaves and vines of trees.

Substrate/Bedding
Substrate is less important here as these lizards will spend almost all of their time in the plants or on the walls. Gravel can be used, as it is easy to clean, while shredded coconut bark helps maintain humidity. Cage carpet can be used as it
is easy to clean and reduces mites. Cover with moist moss to maintain humidity.

Hiding Place/Den
Provide plenty of hiding places with plants, either real or artificial, rocks, wood, vines, or even baffles made of cage carpet.

Cage Type
Glass terrariums are ideal for anoles, as they hold in humidity and are easy to clean. It should be large enough to create plenty of hiding places. Aquariums can be used, too.

Diet
Anoles are insectivores, so feed small crickets, a few mealworms, and flightless fruit flies. Anoles are also nectar drinkers, and can be fed small pieces of fruit and small amounts of fruit puree, such as baby food. These foods must be removed soon or they will attract fruit flies (which can be eaten by the anoles).

Supplements
Additional calcium and vitamin powder can be lightly dusted over the crickets occasionally – it is recommended to alternate days of vitamin powder and calcium powder. Since crickets are naturally high in phosphorus, choose a
calcium powder that lacks that mineral.

Diet Precautions
Too much phosphorus, as excess phosphorus will be absorbed instead of calcium. Avoid too many mealworms, as these are hard to digest.

Feeding
Feed about 3 small crickets a day. Gut load the crickets with nutritious cricket food to give additional vitamins and minerals to your anole.

Water Source
Anoles rarely drink from water bowls. Mist several times a day or use a slow drip system to mimic the dew they drink in the wild. A waterfall also provides a drinking place.

Grooming
Anoles need humidity to help shed their skins. Their grooming needs are minimal.

Oral and Foot Care
Toes can get caught in loose strands of cage carpeting; check your cage carpet when you clean it. Anoles can develop mouth rot from unsanitary conditions.

Proper Handling
Most anoles are nervous and very fast, making them difficult to hold. When tame and used to you, they can sit in your hand. Handle gently, as their tale can snap off as a defense mechanism.

Habitat Maintenance
Clean the cage weekly, spot clean soiled areas daily.

Health Concerns
Dehydration is a risk as these lizards need moisture.

Aquarium Maintenance: Feeding

Oct 162011
 

Proper nutrition is important for the long-term health of the fish and to bring out
their full, vibrant colors. Try to provide a balanced and varied diet that contains all the
protein, fatty acids, fat-soluble carotenoids, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals to
accomplish this.

Different types of fishes require dissimilar feeding requirements. For our purposes
they will be categorized into predatory/prey species and subdivided into piscivores,
herbivores, omnivores, and limnivores.

  • Predatory species (piscivores) include cichlids, pufferfish, and lionfish. These fish have evolved eating large and occasional feedings. Because of this they should be fed less often and with larger foods; a large meal once a day, skipping a meal every 2nd day.
  • Prey species (herbivores, omnivores, and limnivores) are just the opposite requiring
    small and often feedings.
  • Omnivores (Goldfish, Tetras, Damselfish) should be fed small amounts at least twice a day. Only feed as much as they can consume in thirty seconds or count the flakes. A fish’s stomach is roughly the size of one of their eyes, so feed accordingly. Do not overfeed, as a fish will gorge itself until its intestines burst.

If there is any remaining food left floating or that has sunk, they are being overfed; cut the amount of food in half. Overfeeding not only directly affects a fish’s health, it does so indirectly by decaying and thus harming the water quality.

Other signs of overfeeding are “mold” growing on the substrate, food being unattended to, and feces trailing a fish’s cloaca.

A goldfish’s diet should consist of special food with a lower protein and a higher carbohydrate content as the staple. To supplement this, they should also be fed blanched vegetables, beans, anacharis/elodea, oats, worms, etc.

Herbivores (Tangs, Silver Dollars, Surgeonfish) graze constantly and should be fed blanched¹ slices of fresh vegetables like zucchini, spinach, cucumbers, and peas as well as edible aquaria plants, spirulina flakes, and dried seaweed sheets.

Make sure the plants, vegetables, and seaweed sheets are anchored or clipped firmly so the fish can easily grip and tear them. Remove whatever remains after a couple of hours.

Limnivores (literally mud-eater) include loaches, catfish, and blennies. They will feed on algae, snails, and microorganisms that live within the substrate. They should be fed algae wafers, shrimp pellets, bloodworms, etc.

Plecostomus’ are limnivores and they require the presence of driftwood in their aquarium as they feed off the biofilm, which is a major component of their natural diet.
In addition the size, shape, and position of a fish’s mouth will determine where
and how it will eat.

  • An upward-facing mouth is called superior and is suited for eating foods on the surface, or above them. (Ex. Bettas, Gouramis, Butterflyfish)
  • A middle-positioned mouth is called anterior and is suited for eating foods in the mid-region of the tank. (Ex. Tetras, Rasboras, Goldfish)
  • A downward-facing mouth is called inferior and is suited as a bottom feeder. (Ex. Loaches, Corys, Plecos)

Not all foods are created equally and to compensate for this a diverse diet must be given. A diet of live, frozen, and dry foods is sure to provide sufficient amounts of the nutrients needed to ensure maximum growth, health, energy, and color.

Live foods:

  • Variety of rich options for freshwater, brackish, and marine; daphnia, brine shrimp, bloodworm (red mosquito larvae), earthworms, fruit flies, etc
  • Natural and complete food: after all fish have evolved for millions of
    years eating the same foods.
  • Contains the nutrients encountered by wild fish and may contain some yet to be discovered that would be absent in dry foods.
  • Some difficult species will only accept live foods. They must be weaned off live foods gradually through effort and patience of the owner.
  • May induce breeding in fish and is definitely the best choice for raising
    fry.
  • May contain harmful pathogens, parasites, and diseases. Make sure to purchase only from a reputable retailer and check for freshness.
  • Only lasts for a week without additional care.
  • Cost is more than dry or frozen.

Frozen:

  • Variety of rich options including tubifex worms, mysis shrimp, krill. Freeze dried: plankton, etc.
  • Natural and complete food: after all fish have evolved for millions of years eating the same foods.
  • Contains the nutrients encountered by wild fish and may contain some yet to be discovered that would be absent in dry foods.
  • After weaning off live foods, frozen/freeze dried should be the only option as it provides the same nutritional value with more convenience.
  • Guaranteed to be free of pathogens, parasites, and diseases.
  • Can last for years if properly frozen.
  • Costs more than dry, but less than live foods.

Dry:

  • Wide variety of high-quality foods made for all types of fish.
  • Designed to contain sufficient amounts of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals.
  • Will last years with proper storage/refrigeration.
  • Cost is the least and the most convenient option.
  • Over time fish could lose interest and full growth potential will not be reached.
  • Nutritional value deteriorates quickly, only buy enough to for a couple of months and refrigerate to maintain quality.

Feeder Fish:
Some difficult species of fish like lionfish or voracious predators like piranha are fed feeder fish because either they will only eat live fish or the owner enjoys watching their pet eat how they would in nature. However, this form of feeding is doing them a disservice as these common fish (goldfish, minnows, guppies, etc.) are often: housed in crowded tanks, undernourished, and carriers of diseases. These are poor quality fish and should never be introduced into a stable, healthy ecosystem. The predator must be weaned off feeders and onto frozen since there are superior substitutes (frozen krill, silversides, beefheart, etc.) and
they are guaranteed to be disease-free. It is of the utmost importance to begin the weaning process while they are growing; it will be much more difficult to succeed once they reach adulthood.

Vacationing
If the trip is to last less than four days, don’t do anything. Fish have evolved in such a way that several days without food does little damage to their body. For trips lasting more than four days there are several options available.

  • Automatic feeders: These are reliable, programmable machines that release controlled amounts of flakes, pellets, and tablets multiple times a day and can hold food up to a month.
  • Vacation blocks: Popular choice, but may cause water quality issues since they are constantly dissolving. For this reason blocks are best suited for ten-day trips or less.
  • Obtain someone well informed: Plenty of aquariums have been wiped out by an inexperienced, but well meaning friend that fed too much. Have them feed small amounts every other day to reduce the risk and be sure to show them how much to feed. While they are there, have them check all equipment and count the livestock.

————————-
¹Blanching is a cooking process wherein the item is plunged into boiling water for a brief
amount of time. Immediately after removing the item from the boiling water, it should be
plunged into a bowl of iced water. There are many positives to blanching, but aquarists
mainly do it to soften firm vegetables.

Cool Summer Treats for a Cool Dog

Oct 162011
 

We all love our iced lattes, coffees, and teas during the hot summer months. But did you know that frozen treats are a great way to help keep your dog cool and occupied, too? Here are some of the coolest ideas and products we have for your pup.

Frozen Kongs

  • Many people are familiar with peanut butter in a Kong, but there are so many more ideas! Try filling it with mashed potatoes and frozen peas, then freeze.
  • Combine some plain yogurt, canned pumpkin, and cooked brown rice in a small baggie. Mix well inside the bag, then snip off a corner of the bag and squeeze it into the Kong toy, then freeze.
  • Soak some of your dog’s regular food in water (or chicken broth) for a brief time before placing it inside a Kong, then freeze.
  • Try a “Cheesy Elvis”: Combine a ripe banana, 3 spoonfuls of peanut butter, and a slice of cheese (melt slightly in microwave to make mixing easier). Mix until blended well, fill the Kong and freeze.
  • Want something meatier for your carnivore? Try a doggy omelet: combine a scrambled egg, some beef, yogurt, melted cheese and mashed potatoes all together in a Kong and freeze.
  • Mix tuna or your favorite freeze dried meat treat, like Stella and Chewey’s or Whole Life, with some yogurt and freeze in the Kong.
  • For fillings that are very wet, use a chewy treat or food piece to fill the small hole in the end to make filling easier.
  • Is your dog a big chewer? Fill the Kong completely to make getting the goodies out more difficult. You can also fill the Kong, then place it in a dish and cover with broth. Freeze the whole thing, then give the entire block to your dog so they have to work through the ice to get to the Kong!
  • Also try running a rope through the Kong, fill and freeze, then hang from a branch in a shady spot for a fun doggy piñata.

Pupsicles
Try these fun and healthy do-it-yourself treats. Mix all the ingredients and freeze them in ice cubes for small dogs, Dixie cups for medium dogs, and large paper cups or popsicle trays for larger dogs. They can also be frozen in a Kong for big chewers.

Fresh and fruity Pupsicles:

  • Two mashed bananas
  • One cup strawberries (fresh or frozen)
  • One cup organic apple juice or sugar free applesauce
  • Two cups yogurt (plain or vanilla)

Frozen peanut butter yogurt treats:

  • 32oz. container of vanilla yogurt
  • 1 cup of peanut butter

Pumpkin Pupsicles:

  • 32oz. vanilla yogurt
  • 1 Large can pure mashed pumpkin (TIP – Remember to use pure pumpkin and NOT the spiced pie filling!)

Frozen Bones
Frozen bones, like those by Primal, are one of the most popular coolers for your dog, and the most natural. Available in a variety of sizes and types – such as bison, venison, and beef – these are a great way to keep your dog happy on the porch all day, and a great for their jaws and teeth. Frozen bones can be fed two ways:

  • Allow your dog to chew on it for a couple of hours, then take it away, rinse it off, and refreeze it. You can repeat this three or four times.
  • Give your dog the frozen bone all day long, taking it away at the end. If your dog manages to remove all the meat and marrow, you can allow them to chew on the bone for as long as it lasts (taking it away when it is too small). If there is still some meat or marrow left at the end, throw the bone away. As always, treat frozen bones as raw meat and be sure to sanitize your hands and their play area afterward.

You should also always monitor your pup’s play time, and, as these frozen treats can be messy. Feed them outside, on the porch, or some place that is easy to clean.

Bone Appétit!

Parakeet Care

Oct 062011
 

ParakeetAdult Size
6-7 inches in length, weighing about 1-1.5 ounces.

Life Span
About seven years on average, because of over-breeding. Up to fifteen years.

Male/Female Differences
The cere or “nose” of the parakeet, which is pink in juveniles, turns a blue or purple in males when they become mature and white or brown in females.

Compatibility
Budgies are highly social animals, and as such compatibility can often depend on the individual personalities of the birds. Very often multiple birds will be compatible, but care must be taken to ensure they accept each other. Also, pairs will pay more attention to each other and tend to shun their owner.

Origin
Inland Australia, budgies are nomadic birds. The common parakeet has been bred in captivity for almost two hundred years.

Climate
Warm and dry.

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day)

Temperature Ideal
70-80 degrees Fahrenheit

Lighting
No special lighting is required, but budgies, like all creatures will benefit greatly from natural sunlight and a normal day cycle.

Humidity
Ambient humidity is ideal (60-70%).

Habitat/Territory
Light forest and grassland.

Substrate/Bedding
Aspen shavings (cedar and pine shavings can emit gasses that may lead to liver problems), compressed hardwood pellets, or recycled paper products. Uncoloured newspaper is sufficient if changed whenever it is soiled.

Hiding Place/Den
Budgies will enjoy an area high in their cage which makes them feel secure. Soft felt or fleece tents are available, or simply a high perch surrounded by hanging toys.

Cage Type
The rule of thumb for most birds is to have a cage at least half again the length of their wingspan in all directions. For a parakeet this means 18x18x18 inches as a minimum. If you decide on a larger cage make sure that the bird has an area of the cage where it can feel protected and secure.

Diet
Pelleted diets are ideal, nutritionally speaking, but many budgies would rather starve then eat them. If you have a picky bird a high quality seed diet that does not contain sunflower seeds is acceptable, or you can attempt to transition your bird slowly onto a pelleted diet. In either case the bird’s diet should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables.

Supplements
A multi-vitamin supplement is a great way to ensure your bird is getting proper nutrition, especially a seed-only bird. Calcium supplementation is also critical, and can be achieved by adding cuttle bone or calcium block to the cage.

Diet Precautions
Avoid fatty foods or mixes containing fatty foods (like sunflower seeds) as your bird may pick through the mix and eat only those. Lack of calcium supplementation will lead to fragile bone structure and possible egg impaction in females. Do not give your bird chocolate, avocado, coffee, or rhubarb.

Feeding
Feed fresh food and water daily, supplementing the budgies normal diet with a good variety of vegetables and fruits. Parakeets can be finicky eaters and may take awhile to accept new food items; be persistent and your bird will be healthier in the long run.

Water Source
Some parakeets can learn to drink from a water bottle, which should be kept clean and free of algae. Else, a seed cup filled with water and mounted in the cage is fine, but should be changed daily or whenever soiled.

Grooming
Budgies are very clean animals and will preen themselves and each other (and maybe you too!) meticulously. Misting your bird with a clean spray bottle once or twice a week will help keep their feathers bright and clean. Alternatively, a dish of water can be placed in the bottom of the cage and your budgie may bathe itself.

Oral and Foot Care
Nails should be trimmed monthly, either by your vet or by us at Wilmette Pet. Special ‘manicure’ perches help to keep nails trim. A variety of perches should be placed in the cage to avoid foot atrophy. Hard lava blocks or beak conditioners as well as cuttle bones should be put in the cage to wear down the beak. If it becomes overgrown it will need to be filed down by your vet.

Proper Handling
Many parakeets can be taught to step onto their owner’s finger. However, if allowing your bird out of its cage, the wings should be clipped (by us or by your vet) to avoid accidental injury. If you need to grab your bird, use a towel and gently take the body in the palm of your hand holding the head between your thumb and index finger to prevent your bird from hurting itself.

Habitat Maintenance
Substrate should be changed whenever soiled. Perches and the cage itself should be scrubbed down when they become dirty, usually every week or two. Health Concerns Birds have very sensitive respiratory systems and should be kept away from drafty areas as well as kitchens and laundry rooms as fumes from these areas can be enough to kill your bird. Too cool temps can lead to respiratory infections.

Finch Care

Oct 052011
 

Gouldian Finch: erythrura gouldiae

Download the pdf version of the finch care sheet.

There are many species of finches. Most common are zebra finches (poephila guttata), Gouldian Finch (erythrura gouldiae), and society finch (lonchura striata domestic)

HABITAT

Size:

  • Finches are birds that need ample room to fly back and forth within a cage. Therefore, the wider the cage the better.  Typically, one would need to purchase a cage with the minimum measurements of 24” long by 14” wide by 18” high for a pair.
  • Barring on the cage must be relatively small to prevent the birds from flying out or getting stuck.
  • Aviaries are another route to go.  These are large bird rooms that allow the finches to fly about without the restraints of a small cage.  There must be sufficient lighting and aeration to keep them healthy.

Substrate:

  • One option, often recommended by veterinarians, would be a paper substrate.  This includes newspaper, Kraft paper, blank newsprint, and any other similar matter.  Paper substrates allow owners to inspect the fecal matter for any possible ailment.  Since it is easily dirtied, paper must be changed every day.
  • The second option would be a litter/bedding substrate.  This may include aspen pellets and recycled paper bedding such as Yesterday’s News unscented cat litter.  Pellet bedding is highly recommended because it has a lower risk of bird consumption and impaction.  Unscented material is also recommended to avoid any possible respiratory issues.  Although it becomes difficult to see and assess the fecal matter, litter substrates are more absorbent; thus, allowing owners to change it fewer times within a week

Accessories:

  • Finches do not fancy regular bird toys.  Instead, they enjoy materials that they can use to generate nests.  Items such as wicker nests and fluff bedding may be used as foraging material due to their neatness and their ability to provide healthy stimulation.  Other foraging material may be wheat grass pots or sprouts grown from finch seed.  This also provides the finch with a healthy diet supplement.  String, twist ties, and other such material must be steered away from due to the fact that it may both be swallowed and choked upon or the bird’s foot may become caught thus cutting off blood circulation.
  • Perches are another necessity in keeping healthy finches.  There must be a variety of perches with different shapes and textures in the cage since they spend most of their time on them.  There are several types of perches available to finches.  Manzanita branches are a common form of a perch used by most owners.  It provides a natural look in the cage and it comes in a variety of sizes and structures.  A manicure perch is often utilized for its perfect diameter size and for its ability to trim nails with ease.  Soft rope perches are another type preventing callused feet.  Try to stay away from sandpaper perches because they may often cause pressure build-up and sores on their feet.  Provide as many different types of perches as possible to keep the finch happy and healthy.  Place them away from food or water dishes to avoid contamination and sickness from any fecal matter.  The more variety of perches in the cage the healthier the finch will be.
  • Finches also enjoy swings made from dowel rods.  Provide a couple of these in the cage to allow the finch to sit, swing, and relax throughout the day.
  • Mirrors are another great accessory to add in the cage.  They provide good mental and physical stimulation.  When the finch sees its reflection, it will often posture and sing to its reflection.  However, mirrors must be offered for short periods of time by rotating it in and out of the cage to allow the finch to rest.

Maintenance:

  • Substrate must be checked on a daily basis.  If a paper bottom is used, change it every day.  Bedding must be inspected daily; however, it can be changed about twice a week.  Full sanitation of the cage must be done at least once a month while the bottom tray is sanitized once a week.  Food and water dishes must be rinsed out daily and replaced with new material.  Perches should also be taken out and sanitized of any fecal matter at least once a week, or as deemed necessary.

DIET

Pellet and Seed:

  • Although most believe that finches are solely seed eaters, many recommend cutting back on seed and using more pellet food.  The seed may be a finch favorite however it lacks several needed vitamins, minerals, and amino acids.  It also contains a higher fat content thus exposing the bird to obesity or health disease.  When providing the finch with a seed diet, pure Calcium and Vitamin A must be allotted to maintain the health of the bird.  Pellets provide a more complete diet to keep the finch healthy.  Since pellet food already contains Calcium and Vitamin A, providing extra may cause over exposure.  Seed may be given occasionally or mixed in with the pellet in small amounts, but it should not make up the entire diet.

Protein:

  • Providing protein, especially to younger birds or to birds that are molting, is especially important.  Protein may include hard boiled eggs, other egg based food, and bugs such as mealworms and fruit flies.  It is also a good idea to provide the finch with the entire egg, shell and all.  Other than protein, the shell gives the bird the Calcium that it needs to remain healthy.

Fruits and Vegetables:

  • Chopped spinach, lettuce, kale, broccoli, mustard greens, carrots, and sweet potatoes are the most common and most recommended vegetables to be given to finches on a daily basis.  Fruit slices such as apples, mangoes, and bananas are a great supplement in a finch diet.  Other than being a healthy meal, they may also be used as activities for the finch.  Larger pieces of fruits and vegetables may be used as exercise tools by tying them up to the sides of the cage so that the finch can try to pull and tug them.

Cuttlebone and Grit:

  • Cuttlebone is highly recommended for finches.  It provides them Calcium which is a vital component in their diet that must be met.  Cuttlebone also has traces of lime that aid in digestion.
  • Grit is a charcoal essential in aiding digestion while also providing valuable minerals and trace elements such as Calcium.  It should be provided in a separate cup.

Caution:

  • Avocado, fruit seeds, chocolate, caffeine, and alcohol should never be given to finches for it causes serious medical conditions.

FEATHER CARE

  • Proper Bathing:
  • Bathing is very important in regards to finches.  A water bowl should be placed on the bottom of the cage filled with lukewarm water.  Bathing rituals should be done on a weekly basis during the year and on a daily basis during the summer.  The bowl should be removed after the birds are done bathing.
  • Molting refers to the event in which the bird sheds or loses feathers then grows them again during a period of time.  Bathing allows the finch to preen itself during the molting process, thus encouraging healthy feather growth.

LIGHTING

  • Proper lighting is necessary in keeping the finch healthy and responsive.  UVB and UVA lights must be provided in the cage.
  • Birds are very emotional in regards to lighting and it allows them to maintain a mental and physical health.
  • UVB:
    UVB lighting allows birds to synthesize vitamin D3 in their bodies.  It is essential for proper calcium metabolism, normal growth, egg production, and for strong bones.
  • UVA:
    UVA lighting is also known as visible lighting.  This allows the bird to locate food, recognize mates, and identify different species.  UVA helps reduce feather picking and other unhealthy behaviors.  This lighting helps stimulate appetites, develop feathers, and properly see colors.

BEAK AND FEET CARE

Beak Care:

  • Finches rarely need a beak trim; however, owners may bring their birds into veterinarians or other specialists who are able to do it.  Finches themselves are able to trim down their own beaks through the accessories provided in the cage such as abrasive perches and nesting material.  Supply a beak conditioner with pumice to aid in beak trims.

Feet Care:

  • Nails may be trimmed when it is necessary.  They are able to trim down their own nails through the help of proper perches.  Proper perches entail different shapes, sizes, and textures.
  • Finches may form pressure sores on their feet if the proper equipment is not provided.  Several perches of different varieties must be in the finch cage in order to relieve them of any pressure.

COMPATIBILITY

General:

  • Finches are social animals that usually do not harm one another provided that they have sufficient cage space.  Multiple finches may be housed in one cage as long as it is big enough to allow them territory space.  Larger species may cause problems in the cage if bullying ensues.

Species:

  • For the most part, finches of different species are able to tolerate one another.  However, certain breeds, such as the Zebra Finch, may be aggressive in their own nature.  Though they are considered a gentle breed, they are aggressive towards other finches if there is not sufficient room for territory marking.  It is often recommended to avoid mixing Zebra Finches with others.
  • Most finches are compatible and comfortable with others of the same species.  It is recommended to obtain a pair of finches of the same breed so they are happy and so they can enjoy one another’s company.  If multiple pairs are desired, the issue of cage space is brought up.  There may typically be competition amongst one another if there are two pairs; therefore at least three pairs of finches of the same species would be ideal in keeping them happy.

Gender:

  • When purchased in a pair, the gender of the finch does not matter.  It may be of the same gender or it may be a heterogeneous pair.  However, once multiple pairs are looked at, competition becomes a factor.  Males tend to fight over a single female therefore having an odd amount of birds is not recommended.  Competition may even ensue if two pairs of finches are purchased therefore three pairs would be the best set up.

ISSUES

Temperature:

  • Finches must be kept away from drafts because they are highly sensitive to temperature.  Warmer temperatures are needed in keeping finches healthy therefore cages should be kept away from windows, air conditioned and heat vents, or any other drafty area.

Respiratory:

  • Although finches are hardy birds, they are notorious for having respiratory issues due to their sensitive systems.  They must be kept away from any toxic fumes and their cage must be well ventilated.

Other:

  • Finch illnesses are uncommon; however, those who do fall sick can usually blame it on improper diet, dirty cages, and drafts.  Precautions must be taken in order to avoid sickness.  Owners should constantly monitor their birds in order to notice any peculiar or drastic behavior changes.  If a problem persists, veterinary involvement is mandatory.
  • Some signs of illness include: feather plucking, puffiness, beak swelling, wheezing and coughing, runny and discolored stools, swollen eyes, loss of appetite, eye or nasal discharge, and unusual sitting on perches or the floor of the cage.

Download the pdf version of the finch care sheet.

 

Domestic Rat Care

Oct 052011
 

Domestic Rat: rattus norvegicus

Download the pdf version of the domestic rat care sheet.

Adult Size
Males weigh from 400 – 800 grams. Females weigh from 250 – 450 grams.

Lifespan
Rats range from 2-4 years.

Male/Female Differences
Males are usually a lot larger than females and they can be easily sexed.

Compatibility
Rats are social animals that live in wherever in the wild. Interaction and socialization are important in developing a rat so that it will learn to trust you. If possible consider getting a pair so that you are not the only source of interaction the rat receives.

Origin
Northern Europe.

Climate
Average temperatures in cities, farms, wherever humans maintain surplus of goods.

Day Cycle
Nocturnal.

Temperature
Avoid extremes, an average home temperature of 75 degrees F will suffice.

Lighting
No special requirement besides a room’s lighting.

Humidity
Low or none.

Habitat/Territory
Rats live wherever humans live.

Substrate/Bedding
Aspen bedding is the most affordable is a good option given their cage is properly ventilated, since a drawback to aspen is its dustiness. Carefresh is the better option because of the low amounts of dust and it provides more comfort to the rat.

Hiding Place/Den
Chew safe toys and non-toxic hiding places will increase their level of interaction when they are left alone. Hiding places will give them a comfort zone and an escape during the day.

Cage Type
Aquarium cages of 15 gallons or more are good as long as it is well ventilated. You can go with a wire cage if it is escape proof. Exercise is key here, with more toys, wheels the better. As with most creatures, the bigger the cage the better.

Diet
Rats will eat anything, but a decent diet will consist of pet blocks, nuts, grains, oats, and seeds. For more variety throw in some dried fruit, meat, and chips. They will gladly accept the change.

Supplements
Vitamins in water help supply missing nutrients from captive diets. Depending on what you feed, supplements such as Pro-zyme and vitamin tablets can aid in their digestion and a healthier looking coat.

Diet Precautions
The best way to feed a rat is the rat/hamster mix. Anything else like meat and dry fruits should be given sparingly and avoid high-calorie diets.

Feeding
A rat’s stomach is about half the size of their head so try not to overfeed. Give about that size twice a day and throw away the leftovers.

Water Source
Most store rats are used to water bottles, but they will happily drink from a bowl. Rinse and wash both and supply fresh water each day. The water bottle may require a metal guard as the rat will gnaw and render the bottle useless.

Grooming
Rats aren’t the most high maintenance pet out there, but if you must clean them go with dust powder or gently wipe them with pet safe wipes. Dust powders are made of volcanic ash, which eliminate extra oils and moisture giving your chinchilla that clean, fluffy look. Whenever your rat is looking dirty put in an ample amount of dust in an easily accessed container and they will start cleaning themselves.

Oral and Foot Care
Rats need chew toys or else their teeth will grow continuously. Supply them with chew treats, or pumice
blocks.

Proper Handling
Rats are one of the most sociable creatures next to dogs, cats and ferrets. They will almost never bite you unless you ask for it. As with any new pet give them time to get to know you and eventually you will be able to put them in your pocket with no problem. Proper handling is grabbing them with both hands and securing them so they won’t fall down. Never grab them by the tail.

Habitat Maintenance
Rats tend to go to the bathroom in the corners. Spot clean their cage daily and once a week clean out the whole thing. They are not incredibly messy so it shouldn’t take that long.

Health Concerns
Diarrhea due to poor diet, congenital cancers, and obesity. A proper nutrition can help prevent or at least retard cancer.

Summary
Rats are perfect first pets or classroom pets. They are almost as sociable as a dog or a cat They are not pets to be ignored; they must have daily interaction either from you or another rat. They also must be let out of their cage to promote exercise and proper health. A rat(s) is a great addition to any home interested in a first pet as they provide friendship, amusement, and are quiet intelligent. Even though they only live for about 3 years, you can be sure they will leave memories that will last for a lifetime.

Download the pdf version of the domestic rat care sheet.

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