Read more about cats and how to care for their nails here.

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This post, Check out these stunning new cat lounges and scratchers, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on April 3, 2015. Tweet This Post!

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Dogs:     No pet should stay outside indefinitely. For dogs that spend time outside, provide plenty of water and a shelter where they can get out of the wind.

As we prepare our cars for the cooler weather, be very careful to not leave any antifreeze accessible to the dog. It is both very delicious and very toxic.

It’s getting darker earlier, so don’t forget to wear something reflective when taking Foxie for a walk.

Since autumn is the time when many people make home repairs and preparations for winter, it’s a good time to go over your dog’s equipment. Check their leashes, collars, and harnesses for wear and tear, replacing anything worn or broken. Check all fences and runs for loose spots or holes, before Wrigley gets out in really bad weather.

Fleas and ticks can be most active in the fall months, as they look for hosts to get them through the winter. Be sure to keep up your spot treatment, check for ticks after long walks, and wash bedding and vacuum pet areas frequently to stop them from wintering inside your house.

One of the biggest changes for your dog, and a big challenge for you,  is their new winter coat (and not a mink one). This is a time for shedding, as their summer coat falls out. They also tend to shed some of the winter coat, since their bodies don’t need the insulation inside. Keep up the fiber and enzyme supplements to help prevent hair impaction, and brush frequently with a de-grooming brush such as the FURminator to remove loose hair. The new season can be harsh on their skin and coats; Salmon oil, like Grizzly Salmon Oil is your best friend, as it helps sooth dry, irritated skin, and those Omega-3 fatty acids make their new coat beautiful. Let their short summer coat grow out, and, if they have really short hair to begin with, when it gets colder get them a great sweater to stay warm.

Dogs are not the only animal friend sharing our lives. Here are some tips for the rest of our friends:

Cats:      Outdoor cats will often climb into the motors of cars to stay warm. If cats tend to roam your neighborhood, bang on the hood or honk the horn before starting your car.

Bettas: While your little betta buddy has been doing great all summer, you may start to notice him slowing down and getting lazy. Adding a small, shatter proof heater to his bowl will help keep him warm and active.

Rabbits: If you keep your rabbit in a hutch outside, be ready to being them into a sheltered space, like a garage, when the weather turns bitterly cold. Provide plenty of hay and bedding for them to burrow into to stay warm. If you have a rabbit or guinea pig, be eco friendly by using their soiled bedding as mulch and compost. Wood beddings such as shredded aspen can be used as mulch, protecting plant’s roots. Paper beddings can be used as mulch or composted; rototilling it into the ground next year gives you great soil. You can soak soiled bedding in water overnight, strain, and then use to give plants their fall feeding of fertilizer, loaded with nitrates and ammonia. It’s great for indoor plants, too.

Reptiles: This time of year many reptiles may slow down, eat very little, and sleep all the time.  Reptiles can respond to the decrease in the amount and intensity of light by bromating, a form of hibernation. Make sure that they have been eating well and defecating normally. You can perk them up and keep them active by increasing the wattage of their heat bulbs.

Birds and parrots: For a lot of parrots, fall can trigger a molt, where new feathers grow and push out old ones. This is the time of year we hear how surprised Polly’s parents were when she flew right off their shoulders! Bring them in for a wing (and nail) trim before you get a surprise, too. Help reduce the irritation the pin feathers cause by misting your bird, and add some vitamins to seed-only diets. It’s especially important to be sure their cage is out of any cold drafts.

With a few special considerations, you and all your pets can safely enjoy what some feel is the best time of the year.

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This post, Winterizing your pets, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on October 30, 2013. Tweet This Post!

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Fancy Rat

(Rattus Norvegicus)

Download and print the pdf version here.

Adult Size – Males weigh from 300 – 550 grams. Females weigh from 250 – 450 grams. Their body length is around 7 inches.

Life span – 2-4 years

Male/female differences – Males are usually larger than females and they can be sexed by eyeing the distance between the urethra and the anus; the distance is further apart in males.

Compatibility – Rats are social animals that live in wherever in the wild. Interaction and socialization are important in developing a rat so that it will learn to trust you. If possible consider getting a pair so that you are not the only source of interaction the rat receives.

Origin – Northern Europe.

Climate – Average temperatures in cities, farms, wherever humans maintain surplus of goods.

Day Cycle – Nocturnal, but are happy being woken during the day.

Temperature – Avoid extremes; an average home temperature of 75 F will suffice. Make sure they are not in a drafty room as this could lead to complications.

Lighting – No special requirement besides a room’s lighting.

Humidity – Low or none.

Habitat/Territory – Rats live wherever humans live; in the wild they live in burrows.

Substrate/Bedding – Aspen bedding is a good option given their cage is properly ventilated, since a drawback to aspen is its dustiness. Wood pulp substrates are better options because of the low amounts of dust and they provide more comfort to the rat. Newspaper pellets can also be used as substrate since they are dust free.

Hiding Place/Den – Chew safe toys and non-toxic hiding places will increase their level of interaction when they are left alone. Hiding places will give them a comfort zone and an escape during the day.

Cage Type – Aquarium cages of 30” or longer are good as long as it is well ventilated. You can go with a wire cage if it is escape proof. Exercise is key here, with toys, wheels, ramps and platforms, so bigger is better.

Diet – A decent diet will consist of pet blocks, nuts, grains, oats, and seeds. For more variety throw in some fresh veggies and fruits, bland human foods like dry pasta, scrambled eggs, yogurt, and cooked white meat. They will gladly accept the change.

Supplements – Vitamins in water help supply missing nutrients from captive diets. Depending on what you feed, supplements such as enzymes and vitamin tablets can aid in their digestion and a healthier looking coat.

Diet Precautions – Avoid high-calorie diets that contain sunflower seeds and fatty foods that could lead to obesity. Dry fruits and treats should be given sparingly. Signs of a poor diet could be hair loss, chronic infections, and staining around the eyes and nose.

Feeding – A rat’s stomach is about half the size of their head so try not to overfeed. Give about that size twice a day and throw away the leftovers.

Water Source – Most store rats are used to water bottles, but they will also drink from a bowl. Rinse and wash both and supply fresh water each day. Consider bottled or purified water. The water bottle may require a metal guard as the rat will gnaw and render the bottle useless.

Grooming – Pet safe wipes are the best option for cleaning your rat. Occasionally you could bathe your rat, but do it very carefully with pet safe shampoo and then dry them quickly with a towel. Afterwards brush them with a nylon bristle brush.

 Oral and Foot Care – Rats need chew toys or else their teeth will grow continuously. Supply them with chew treats, or pumice blocks.

Proper Handling – Rats are one of the most sociable creatures next to dogs, cats and ferrets. They are not known to bite. As with any new pet give them time to get to know you and eventually you will be able to put them in your pocket with no problem. Proper handling is holding them with both hands and securing them so they won’t fall down. Never grab them by the tail.

Habitat Maintenance – Rats tend to go to the bathroom in the corners. Spot clean their cage daily and at least once a week clean out the whole thing.

Health Concerns – Diarrhea due to poor diet, congenital cancers, tumors respiratory problems, mites and obesity. A proper nutrition can help prevent the cancer and eliminate the threat of obesity. Proper ventilation and dust-free bedding will help prevent respiratory problems and mites.

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This post, Care sheet – fancy rat, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on January 25, 2012. Tweet This Post!

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 So how do we counter that impulse, and at the same time ensure that the kids will stay interested in their new pet?

            Have them do some research on the animal they want. Some parents have their kids write it up in a report. Have them find material on their origins and required upkeep. Doing this work can take the edge off the impulse and can help them understand the work needed to care for the pet. We have a great place to get started: check out our list of care sheets. And, as always, you can stop by at any time to talk about animals, their care and habitats.

            Write a contract. One of our favorite stories is of one of our young customers who wanted a fancy rat. To help convince her parents that she was ready for a pet, she wrote a contract, specifying what her chores were to be and even the penalties if she failed to do them.

            Have them do some work. Another great story we heard was of a family that wanted a dog (especially the kids). Mom and Dad didn’t think that the kids were ready, despite their protestations of “We’ll help take care of him! We promise!” Finally the parents decided to make the kids prove their claims. They told the kids that they had to spend a month taking an imaginary dog for a long walk, each day, no matter how tired they were, what else they wanted to do, no matter the weather. This was a real test, as this was in the winter. They were not allowed to miss one walk, no matter the reason. The kids proved that they could follow through, and they were there looking for a new pet.

 We see often the parents want to get rid of their pet because the kids won’t take care of it anymore. People sometimes find, in their busy lives, they don’t want to fight to make the kids care for the pet and it’s easier to get rid of it. But we feel that there’s nothing easier, and more worthwhile, than fostering that relationship. This is a good time to stop and remember you got the pet in the first place.  We find that looking at the problem from a different point of view can be helpful. After all, there are a ton of things we have to do that we don’t like. Caring for a pet is a great way to begin to teach your kids this lesson.

So how do you make an unwanted pet wanted again? Try some of these steps to keep your kids interested in their pets:

            Get the pet out of the child’s room, basement or other area that keeps it away from the whole family. Have the pet out and with you when you are doing sit down family get together such as playing board games or watching a video.

            Be a cheerleader; say only positive things about the pet and start assuming the handling and care of the family pet. Once a healthy routine is established periodically ask for some help here and there such as asking the kids to give a quick treat to the family pet. It’s a lot of fun to have your kids feed a guinea pig or rabbit fresh foods; when preparing dinner, have them feed the carrot tops or broccoli. Over time you will start seeing the personality of your pet and new found respect.

            Have them research any tricks they can teach their pet. Even the smallest of animals can learn to do something cute, and time spent by your kid teaching a pet tricks can revitalize their enthusiasm. Check out places like YouTube for some ideas.

            Get a harness or a see through carrier and have the pet just sitting there at your side. You and your pet may need to get use to it, and over time the pet will enjoy the stimulus and the family appreciation for the pet will grow. Pets can create a common connection among family members.  A wire play pen is a great way to involve the pet guinea pig or rabbit in family time.

Getting a pet for a child should be met with the understanding that the reason for doing so is to help teach the children to be better adults. Pets help teach children so many values, such as nurturing, discipline, patience, cleanliness, good nutrition, listening skills, and relationship building. They can encourage kids to learn more; researching a pet can teach them geography, biology, history, and animal conservation and husbandry. We can’t think of anything else you buy can teach your children as many values – certainly no game system or smartphone can teach them so much.

Click here to download and print this article.

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This post, Helping parents keep kids interested in their pets., originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on December 2, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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Pellets: What most people to consider the staple of a rabbit or guinea pig’s diet is, in fact, the most minor part. Pellet food was first created for breeders, to save them time. Instead of a bowl full of pellets, they only need one to two tablespoons per day. Many veterinarians are even suggesting that they only be offered as treats.

Hay: Rabbits and guinea pigs absolutely must have hay. Offer unlimited amounts of hay for your pet. It is vital for their digestion; they must have the fiber to move their food through their digestive tract. Keep hay in the cage at all times, topping it up with fresh when they eat it down. Timothy hay is the main staple hay. Alfalfa hay should only be offered to young animals as it is high in the fat, protein, and minerals need for growth. For animals older than a year, it can be offered occasionally as a treat (they love the taste of it), but excessive alfalfa can cause obesity.

Greens: The bulk of a rabbit or guinea pig’s diet should be dark, leafy greens. Smaller rabbits and guinea pigs should get 1 – 2 cups per day, and larger rabbits should get 3-4 cups. Offer a wide variety, as no one vegetable has all the required nutrients. Besides, wouldn’t you get bored with the same diet day in and day out? Generally try to have 3-5 vegetables in each feeding. The basis of your mix should include: Romaine, red or green leaf lettuce, butter or Boston lettuce, or spring mix of greens. Add one or two other things: arugula, basil, beet greens—green leaves on the top, not beets themselves, carrot greens, cilantro, dandelion greens—not from the yard as it can be covered in pesticides or pollution, dill, endive, escarole, fennel, chopped finely, kale—use sparingly, if at all—high in calcium, mint, mustard or collard greens, parsley, radicchio, radish greens, sage, sorrel , and watercress. Small pieces of apple, oranges, bananas, or bell peppers are an added treat. Check out our article “Your Herbivore and You” here.

Offer spinach occasionally, as it contains compounds that inhibit the absorption of calcium into their bones. Offer carrots rarely (maybe one small peeled baby carrot a week); carrots are very high in sugar, something not easily digested by rabbits or guinea pigs (only Bugs Bunny eats carrots every day). Avoid cilantro, as it is thought to contribute to bacterial infections. Never feed your rabbit or guinea pig chocolate, cookies, crackers, bread or breadsticks, nuts, pasta or other human treats. Also don’t give them corn, potatoes or onions. And don’t feed them birdseed, yogurt or cat or dog food. These items can be poisonous or cause serious health problems
Guinea pigs have one special need that rabbits don’t: vitamin C. Most mammals, except for guinea pigs and humans, produce their own vitamin C, so we must supplement this. Vitamin C tablets are the easiest way to do this. It takes just one tablet a day, and many guinea pigs take it from their hand as if it’s a treat.

Try this recipe for homemade bunny biscuits. Offer these treats sparingly.

1 small carrot, pureed
1/2 banana, mashed until really creamy
1 tbsp honey
1/4 cup rabbit pellets, ground finely in a coffee grinder
1/4 cup ground oats, ground finely in a coffee grinder

Mix pureed carrot, banana and honey in a medium bowl. Add pellet powder and ground oats. Mix until blended. Knead in your hands for 1-2 minutes. Roll out the “dough” in 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick layers between sheets of plastic wrap. Cut into small cookies (about 3/4 inch across). Place cut shapes onto a parchment paper covered cookie sheet. Bake at 325 degrees for about 30 minutes (check to make sure they are not browning too much). Turn off the heat and let the cookies sit in the warm oven for an hour or so.

Providing the proper diet for your new little pet is not hard. It can take a little bit of time to get into the swing of it, but it is well worth it. Keep in mind a few things: variety is important, and feed them the healthy greens that you’d eat. As people better understand the digestion and nutritional needs of rabbits and guinea pigs, they are living longer, much healthier and happier lives.

Download the care sheet (pdf)

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This post, Feeding Rabbits and Guinea Pigs, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 18, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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Goldfish, Carassius

Download the care sheet (pdf)

Origin
East Asia

Size
2-20 inches

Life Span
2-50 years

Temperature
60°F-72°F

Congratulations on your new pet! The following are some basic guidelines to help your fish live a long, healthy life. Historians believe that goldfish were amongst the first fish to be domesticated in China around the 9th century. The modern goldfish is a tamed version of a gray-brown carp native to East Asia. Because of a dominant genetic mutation, some of these carp began displaying orange/yellow colors rather than their natural gray tones. The new “gold” variety became so popular, that during the Song Dynasty of China it was forbidden for anyone outside of the imperial family to keep goldfish with golden hues.

During the 17th century the goldfish was introduced to Europe and because of their popularity, quickly spread to North America. Because of selective breeding, there are many different classifications of goldfish based upon their color, body shape, eyes, and finnage. These include comets, black moors, ranchus, shubunkins, celestial eyes, and orandas.

SETTING UP THE BOWL
Equipment – bowl, gravel, water conditioner, food, liquid biological bacteria, aquarium salt (optional), air pump (optional)
1) Rinse both the bowl and the gravel with regular tap water thoroughly. Do not use soap or any other chemicals. This is the last time the gravel will be cleaned.
2) Fill the bowl halfway with room temperature tap water; add the water conditioner, the liquid bacteria, and the aquarium salt. Aquarium salt, while optional, is a useful treatment for sores, infections, parasites, and functions as a precautionary measure against disease organisms as it stimulates the fish’s production of slime coating.
3) Float the bag within the bowl for about twenty minutes to acclimate the fish to room temperature.
4) After twenty minutes release the goldfish into the bowl and fill the bowl within two inches from the top.

FEEDING
Goldfish are omnivorous and should be fed a diverse diet for them to attain maximum growth, color, and life potential. Goldfish can be fed high carbohydrate-low protein flakes/pellets, bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, tubifex worms, earthworms, peas, cucumbers, oats, cheese, beans, spinach, seaweed sheets, and anacharis. They should be fed a pinch of food twice a day. If any food remains after thirty seconds, they are being overfed; cut the amount of food in half.

BOWL MAINTENANCE
Unfortunately, the volume of water is so small that toxic levels of fish/plant waste: ammonia and nitrite can quickly accumulate and become fatal. For this reason 25% water changes every other day are recommended. The following procedure is suggested.

1) Leave out a one-gallon container of water overnight, treated with water conditioner and salt.
2) Wipe down the inside of the bowl with an algae pad, if necessary.
3) Stir the gravel gently and carefully pour out 25% of the water.
4) Refill the bowl with the preconditioned, room temperature water.

Fortunately, there are microorganisms at work that convert ammonia into nitrite, and then nitrite into nitrate; each gas being less harmful than the one preceding it. However these organisms can only help the ecosystem; if water changes are neglected, the beneficial bacteria can easily become overwhelmed and the ecosystem is liable to crash.

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This post, Goldfish Care, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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Hamster, Mesocricetus auratus

Download care sheet (pdf)

Adult Size
4 to 5 inches long

Life Span
2 to 3 years

Male/Female Differences
Sexing hamsters is done by eyeing the distance between the urethra and the anus; the distance is further apart in males. Both are equally handleable. Females may be more defensive while trying to nest or raise young.

Compatibility
Adult hamsters are solitary. Never keep more than one in the same cage. Hamsters are territorial and will aggressively stress each other out until the other leaves. This rule still applies if they are raised together from the same litter.

Origin
Europe, Asia, Australia.

Climate
Desert and arid grassy plains.

Day Cycle
Nocturnal. Hamsters play at night and sleep during the day.

Temperature
Hamsters do well at average household temperatures. Make sure the cage is well ventilated, out of direct sunlight and drafts.

Lighting
Being nocturnal, bright lights can be harsh for their eyes.

Humidity
Hamsters do well in most indoor humidity. Keep their bedding dry at all times.

Habitat/Territory
Hamsters are burrowing animals.

Substrate/Bedding
Provide a safe and soft bedding, the less dusty the better. Cedar bedding can be toxic and pine too dusty. Good litters are shredded or pelleted aspen or recycled paper products. Supply nesting materials and dry hays.

Hiding Place/Den
Offer chew safe and non-toxic hamster huts, tubes, and wooden hamster toys. Glue on empty paper towel or toilette paper rolls is toxic. Offer nesting materials that will not bind around limbs or cause intestinal damage.

Cage Type
Aquariums, plastic cages with tube accessories, or wire. All should be escape proof, ventilated, and easy to clean. Hamsters love to wander at night. Supply the largest cage that’s possible.

Diet
A few critter cubes and 1-2 tbls of high quality hamster seed mix is given as a staple. Supply a variety of leafy greens and vegetables in small quantities. Avoid spoilage. Fruits should be given to avoid diarrhea. Timothy hay should be given at all times to aid in digestion. Try not to focus on one thing, give good variety. A tiny bit of yoghurt is good for intestinal health.

Supplements
Vitamins in water help supply nutrients missing from captive diets. Hamsters are natural insect eaters. Offer occasional meal worms, crickets, cat or dog kibble, or small dog biscuits. Bland proteins like boiled egg are good.

Diet Precautions
Do not give chocolate, candy, or anything with caffeine. Giving too many greens can cause impacted pouches or
intestinal disorders.

Feeding
Placing food in a bowl will help prevent over feeding. Hamsters will move most of their food into their nest and bury it for later.

Water Source
Water bottles are best. Wash the bottle in between refills. Supply fresh filtered, non-chlorinated water at all times.

Grooming
Hamsters generally lick themselves clean. Grooming your hamster will help socialize it and prevent skin ailments. Using a cat wipe twice a week will help keep the fur healthy. Use a soft bristle brush often to stimulate the hair follicles and remove debris. Keep an eye on the teeth. If the have an overshot, they may need to be clipped. We can do that for you.

Oral and Foot Care
Hamsters have incisors that need to constantly be filed down. Keep soft wood chews, pumice stone, and treat sticks in the cage. Rotate different types to keep the hamster’s interest. Older hamsters may need to have their nails clipped. Use safe ramps and running wheels that will prevent leg injury.

Proper Handling
If the hamster is sleeping, wake gently and always let them smell your hand first. Gently shoo the hamster into one of its hiding places. Pick up the hiding place with the hamster still in it. Holding still with hiding place in hand, offer the other hand to climb out on to of its own free will. Stay close to the ground in case it falls. Offer treats for acceptance and reward.

Habitat Maintenance
Hamsters tend to eliminate in the same area of the cage. Place a litter pan in that area with a little soiled litter for scent. Spot clean the cage daily. Change the litter once a week and wash cage thoroughly with warm soapy water.

Health Concerns
Diarrhea due to poor diet, stress, and/or cage cleanliness. Respiratory distress can be due to poor ventilation, drafts, noxious odors, and dusty litter. Overgrown teeth due to poor chewing stimulation. Congenital cancers are a slight risk. Maintain a healthy environment and diet to

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This post, Hamster Care, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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• Walk your dog in the early morning and evening, when the temperature is cooler.
• Provide plenty of shade and fresh water for dogs outside, and consider bringing them in when the
• weather gets really hot.
• To help cool down a dog, splash their paws with water. Take alcohol wipes on walks and wipe pads. This
  will help them shed excess heat.
• Give your dog a new do! A shorter haircut right now will do a lot to help keep them cool.
• Never leave your dog in a parked car. Even with windows cracked, the temperature inside a car can
  reach fatal levels quickly (in many states, it’s illegal to leave a dog in a car, and in some people can break
  windows to rescue distressed animals.)
• Some dogs get very frightened during these big thunderstorms we have, or during firework displays on
  the 4th of July. Consider trying the Thundershirt. The Thundershirt’s gentle, constant pressure has been
  shown to help calm dogs that are fearful, anxious, or over excited.

With a little care and forethought, you can keep your dog both safe and happy during the great summer months.

Download this care sheet (pdf)

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This post, Helping Your Pet Handle the Heat, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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A guide to choosing the right vegetables for your pet

So you’ve recently acquired an herbivore, like a tortoise or a rabbit? Or maybe you’ve taken home an omnivore, like a bearded dragon? In any case the clerk at the pet store told you that you would have to formulate some, if not all of this animals food on your own.

This means going to the grocery store and stepping away from comfortable, tried and true section of the produce department and sniffing out something that may be a bit more exotic. This means unlike your dog, who gets the same bowl full of the same kibble every morning and night, your new pet’s health and well being depends on feeding one thing today and something entirely different tomorrow.

But what vegetables are the best? What can you feed too much? Are there any that should be avoided altogether? Contained herein is a simple, informative, and concise guide to formulating an herbivorous diet.

Nutrients: Macro v. Micro

Macronutrients are the basic building blocks of nutrition. Protein, fat, carbohydrates, and water are all macronutrients. In general an herbivore’s diet should be low in protein and fat, and high in water, fiber, and plant proteins. Animal protein is almost always accompanied by a high fat content and can be dangerous if fed to strict herbivores, whose digestive systems have evolved to extract maximum nutrition from nutrient-poor plant matter. Avocado, because it is high in fat, should not be fed to herbivores.

Commercial pelleted diets may contain all the proper vitamins and minerals in the proper amounts, but lack water. Animals fed exclusively on pelleted diets often become dehydrated.

Micronutrients are vitamins and minerals, the catalysts that allow body processes to take place. Most strict herbivores are browsers, which means that they graze in one field one day, then amble over to another field the next. Over the course of a year a browser will eat dozens of different kinds of plants, as well as small amounts of soil. This makes a deficiency in any one micronutrient unlikely. In captivity it is important to rotate your pets diet to ensure that no nutrient is deficient or fed in excess.

Again, pelleted diets contain what the manufacturer thinks is the right balance of micronutrients, but vitamins and minerals from fresh vegetables have a much greater bioavailability. That means that your pet’s body is able to absorb and use that vitamin much more efficiently. Raw fresh vegetables also contain digestive enzymes, which precludes the body’s need to produce its own enzymes, allowing more nutrition to be be gleaned from the food.

Secondary Plant Compounds

All plants contain certain chemicals that can affect their digestion. Plants evolved with these chemicals the same way your hedgehog evolved with spines or your tortoise with a shell, as natural defense mechanisms. Some plants may want to repel certain herbivores, which destroy the plant, and attract others, which pollinate it.

Our concern with the plants available at the grocery store will be with two major categories of secondary compounds: oxalates and goitregens. Oxalates and oxalic acid bind with calcium and inhibit its absorbtion by the body. Goitregens affect thyroid function by inhibiting iodine uptake and cause goiters.

Plants high in oxalates include: spinach, beet greens, kale, collard greens, parsley, chard, and okra

Plants high in goitregens include: all cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cabbage, kale, brussels sprouts)

Does this mean that you should avoid these veggies altogether? NO. ALL plants contain secondary compounds. Variety is the key! Care must be taken not to over feed vegetables from these categories, or make them the basis for any diet, but they are an excellent addition to any well varied meal plan.

Frozen Vegetables

Frozen vegetables are a great convenience, and can provide a great back up for when you run out of greens and can’t get to the store. However, frozen veggies should not comprise a regular part of your pet’s diet. Freezing destroys thiamin (vitamin B1), an essential nutrient.

Fat Soluble Vitamins

Vitamins A and D are both fat soluble vitamins, so when fed in excess they accumulate in the fatty tissues of the body and cause health problems. This is known as hypervitaminosis, and can manifest similarly to vitamin deficiencies or metabolic bone disease.

The easiest way to protect against over vitaminizing is to provide vitamin A in the form of beta carotene, which the body converts to vitamin A as it needs to. Foods high in beta carotene are often bright orange, such as: carrots, sweet potatoes, and hard-shell squash. Provide vitamin D by giving natural sunlight, or simulated UVB light from special reptile bulbs, and your animal will synthesize its own.

A Basic List

Here is a basic list of acceptable veggies:

• Staple Veggies: Hardshell or winter squash, dandelion greens, mustard greens, cactus pads (prickly pear), green beans, snap peas, parsnip, turnip tops, and others.
• Avoid feeding in excess: Spinach, kale, collard greens, okra, asparagus, summer squash, carrots and carrot tops, beets and beet greens, broccoli, parsley, sweet potato, and others.
• Avoid: Iceberg lettuce (nutrient poor – but won’t harm your animal), avocado, cabbage, cilantro.

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This post, Your Herbivore And You, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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White's Tree Frog, Litoria caerulea

Download Care Sheet (pdf)

Adult Size
4 – 5 inches

Life Span
16 years

Male/Female Differences
Sexing can be difficult. Females can be slightly larger than males, and males can develop larger, darker pads on their thumbs.

Compatibility
Keep singly, as uneven sized frogs will prey other each other. They also need a lot of room, so provide a large enough terrarium if keeping multiple frogs.

Origin
Australia and New Guinea
Climate Tropical species, so it lives in the warmth and humid.

Day Cycle
Mostly nocturnal.

Temperature
75 – 85 degrees. Provide a mild daytime basking light, with a low wattage bulb, and a heating pad for nighttime heat. Use a small aquarium heater in a bottle of water to provide both warmth and humidity.

Lighting
Provide UVA/UVB lighting during the day. Provide basking light for 12 hours

Humidity
Keep humidity at least 50 percent. Mist the terrarium daily to help maintain this. Using coconut bark or forest bark as a substrate, with plenty of moss, will also help keep these frogs moist. Do not use distilled water, as tap water contains trace minerals that these frogs need.

Habitat/Territory
White’s tree frogs live in the trees near water. White’s also make their homes in and near homes, near cisterns and other water sources.

Substrate/Bedding
Coconut bark and forest bark as a substrate. These are less likely to be ingested and will help keep the terrarium humid. Cage carpet can be used as it is easy to clean and can help reduce mites. Cover with damp moss to help maintain humidity.

Hiding Place/Den
Provide plenty of places to hide and climb with caves, vines, and hanging plants.

Cage Type
Can be housed in a 10 gallon aquarium. These frogs love to climb, so stand the tank on one end. Terrariums make excellent homes, as they are taller and have screen doors for easy access. Provide secure covering as these frogs can and will escape.

Diet
Insects such as crickets, mealworms, worms, and cockroaches and even pinkies are on the menu for the White’s tree frog.

Supplements
Dust food with a calcium/vitamin powder just before feeding. Ensure nutritionally complete crickets by feeding them a quality cricket food.

Diet Precautions
White’s tree frog will overeat if given the chance, so limit its food. If folds of skin begin to appear over the eyes, put your frog on a diet. Limit the amount of mealworms and waxworms that you offer your frog as these are high in fat.

Feeding
Feed a few gut-loaded insects 2 – 3 times a week. Offer mealworms in a shallow dish so that they do not escape.

Water Source
Mist the terrarium daily. Provide a shallow bath for the frog to rest in nightly. Change the water daily.

Grooming
White’s tree frogs groom themselves. Provide fresh water and plenty of humidity to keep their skin healthy and moist.

Oral and Foot Care
Maintain a sanitary cage to prevent foot and leg infections.

Proper Handling
Limit handling of your frog as they can get stressed. Rinse hands to eliminate contaminants. Keep hands most to protect their sensitive skin. Wash hands after handling.

Habitat Maintenance
Change the water in the dish daily. Also remove any excess water that has gathered in the bottom of the cage. Clean the whole cage every other week by removing soiled substrate and replacing with fresh. Wipe down any soiled areas.

Health Concerns
White’s tree frogs are susceptible to bacterial infections like red leg, as well as fungal infections. Most can be avoided by proper cage maintenance. Stress can also lead to illness. White’s tree frogs can also suffer from nutritional deficiency and metabolic bone disease if not provided with supplemental dusting of insects.

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This post, White’s Tree Frog Care, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

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