Click here to register!

...............................................

This post, Join us for our PET Talks!, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on June 21, 2016. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

...............................................

This post, Rabbit Amnesty, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on March 26, 2015. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

Give your pet a safe, happy, and healthy home. The Tommy K line has a large hopper feeder, pet-safe epoxy coated wire top with two access doors, and a deep, easy-to-clean plastic base that helps keep the litter inside.

31″ x 19″x 20″     $64.99         

Essential kits include: Cage, treat ball, timothy hay, Carefresh bedding, large (rabbit) or medium (guinea pig) corner litter tray, and 5 lb bag rabbit or guinea pig Oxbow food.

...............................................

This post, New Years specials on small animal cages, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on January 9, 2014. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

A few basic facts about rabbits:

1. They are not a short term pet. – Rabbits can live up to 10 years (We see rabbits that are 13 or 14 years old).; this is a major commitment in time, money, and energy, and should not be made on a spur of the moment idea.

Read the full article on our website.

We are holding our annual rabbit amnesty for Easter and will not be selling any rabbits from March 25th through April 7th!

Rabbits make wonderful companions and getting one should be an informed decision. Have any questions? Stop by and talk to our well trained staff and check out our caresheets on rabbit care and feeding.

...............................................

This post, Easter and rabbits don’t mix!, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on March 15, 2013. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

We spend a lot of time in our emails talking about your cat and dog’s diet. As we should; it’s an important part of your pet’s life. Today we’re going to talk about the diets of rabbits and guinea pig’s diets, and introduce a few new product to help promote overall wellness.

Rabbits and guinea pigs need fiber in their diets. they do not have muscles to push food through the digestive system. We understand the nutritional needs of these animals and they are living longer, healthier lives! Their diet breaks down to a few simple parts: pellets (limited amounts), a variety of dark, leafy greens (a large handful every day), fresh water, and hay (unlimited amounts.) You can check out our caresheets on feeding rabbits and guinea pigs, and on feeding vegetarians on our website here.

To help you with your pet’s nutrition, we’ve brought in some new foods and supplements, all from Oxbow, one of the leaders in small pet nutrition:

Natural Science Adult Rabbit and Adult Guinea Pig foods include: 

* Unique, novel ingredients such as yellow pea, tomato pomace, and canola offer variety while maintaining proper nutrition
* Long-strand fiber from timothy, orchard and oat hay sources supports digestive health and function
* All-natural antioxidants and Omega 3 & 6 fatty acids promote overall wellness and body systems support
* Prebiotics support a healthy gastrointestinal (GI) system

...............................................

This post, New diets and supplements for your small pet!, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on February 22, 2013. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

Pellets: What most people to consider the staple of a rabbit or guinea pig’s diet is, in fact, the most minor part. Pellet food was first created for breeders, to save them time. Instead of a bowl full of pellets, they only need one to two tablespoons per day. Many veterinarians are even suggesting that they only be offered as treats.

Hay: Rabbits and guinea pigs absolutely must have hay. Offer unlimited amounts of hay for your pet. It is vital for their digestion; they must have the fiber to move their food through their digestive tract. Keep hay in the cage at all times, topping it up with fresh when they eat it down. Timothy hay is the main staple hay. Alfalfa hay should only be offered to young animals as it is high in the fat, protein, and minerals need for growth. For animals older than a year, it can be offered occasionally as a treat (they love the taste of it), but excessive alfalfa can cause obesity.

Greens: The bulk of a rabbit or guinea pig’s diet should be dark, leafy greens. Smaller rabbits and guinea pigs should get 1 – 2 cups per day, and larger rabbits should get 3-4 cups. Offer a wide variety, as no one vegetable has all the required nutrients. Besides, wouldn’t you get bored with the same diet day in and day out? Generally try to have 3-5 vegetables in each feeding. The basis of your mix should include: Romaine, red or green leaf lettuce, butter or Boston lettuce, or spring mix of greens. Add one or two other things: arugula, basil, beet greens—green leaves on the top, not beets themselves, carrot greens, cilantro, dandelion greens—not from the yard as it can be covered in pesticides or pollution, dill, endive, escarole, fennel, chopped finely, kale—use sparingly, if at all—high in calcium, mint, mustard or collard greens, parsley, radicchio, radish greens, sage, sorrel , and watercress. Small pieces of apple, oranges, bananas, or bell peppers are an added treat. Check out our article “Your Herbivore and You” here.

Offer spinach occasionally, as it contains compounds that inhibit the absorption of calcium into their bones. Offer carrots rarely (maybe one small peeled baby carrot a week); carrots are very high in sugar, something not easily digested by rabbits or guinea pigs (only Bugs Bunny eats carrots every day). Avoid cilantro, as it is thought to contribute to bacterial infections. Never feed your rabbit or guinea pig chocolate, cookies, crackers, bread or breadsticks, nuts, pasta or other human treats. Also don’t give them corn, potatoes or onions. And don’t feed them birdseed, yogurt or cat or dog food. These items can be poisonous or cause serious health problems
Guinea pigs have one special need that rabbits don’t: vitamin C. Most mammals, except for guinea pigs and humans, produce their own vitamin C, so we must supplement this. Vitamin C tablets are the easiest way to do this. It takes just one tablet a day, and many guinea pigs take it from their hand as if it’s a treat.

Try this recipe for homemade bunny biscuits. Offer these treats sparingly.

1 small carrot, pureed
1/2 banana, mashed until really creamy
1 tbsp honey
1/4 cup rabbit pellets, ground finely in a coffee grinder
1/4 cup ground oats, ground finely in a coffee grinder

Mix pureed carrot, banana and honey in a medium bowl. Add pellet powder and ground oats. Mix until blended. Knead in your hands for 1-2 minutes. Roll out the “dough” in 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick layers between sheets of plastic wrap. Cut into small cookies (about 3/4 inch across). Place cut shapes onto a parchment paper covered cookie sheet. Bake at 325 degrees for about 30 minutes (check to make sure they are not browning too much). Turn off the heat and let the cookies sit in the warm oven for an hour or so.

Providing the proper diet for your new little pet is not hard. It can take a little bit of time to get into the swing of it, but it is well worth it. Keep in mind a few things: variety is important, and feed them the healthy greens that you’d eat. As people better understand the digestion and nutritional needs of rabbits and guinea pigs, they are living longer, much healthier and happier lives.

Download the care sheet (pdf)

...............................................

This post, Feeding Rabbits and Guinea Pigs, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 18, 2011. Tweet This Post!

...............................................

Rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus

Download the care sheet (pdf)

Adult Size
3 – 5 pounds, depending on breed

Life Span
7 – 12 years, depending on breed

Male/Female Differences
After about 6 weeks of age, the sex organ, when pressed out with the thumb and forefinger, will appear more rounded in a male and more V shaped in a female.

Compatibility
In general, rabbits should be of the same sex and size if they are to be housed together. Ideally the rabbits should have been kept together from a young age. Keeping two or more rabbits is greatly advantageous, but rabbits introduced at older ages can be aggressive.

Origin
All domestic rabbits were bred from the wild European cotton tail.

Climate
Local climate is ideal. Rabbits will be happy with standard household temperatures. A rabbit kept in an outdoor hutch should be shielded from cold winds in the winter and hot sun in the summer.

Day Cycle
Diurnal (awake during the day.)

Temperature
Ideal 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lighting
No special lighting is required, but rabbits, like all creatures, will benefit greatly from natural sunlight, and a normal day/night cycle.

Humidity
Ambient humidity is ideal. Arid climates can be harsh on rabbits, as well as excessive humidity – over 70% can be dangerous, as rabbits are highly susceptible, to heat stroke.

Habitat/Territory
Deciduous forest, woodland, and grassland, but there are species of rabbit and hare living all over the world! Pet rabbits have a long history of domestication and household environs suit them well.

Substrate/Bedding
Aspen shavings, compressed hardwood pellets, or recycled paper products are ideal. Cedar and pine shavings can emit gasses that may lead to liver problems.

Hiding Place/Den
Rabbits will greatly enjoy a hiding place that is snug, but gives them enough room to stand, turn around, and lie down.

Cage Type
Bigger is better! Minimally four times the size of your rabbit is fine, but if the rabbit is to be kept in the cage the majority of the time, the cage should be at least half again as large. Rabbits kept outside in a hutch should have a great deal of space – four feet by two is great.

Diet
A pelleted rabbit food should be fed to insure that your rabbit is meeting all of his/her nutritional needs. On top of that, rabbits over six weeks of age should fed supplemental fresh vegetables (dark leafy greens are best.) Hay should always be available to your rabbit as a high amount of fiber is necessary for the rabbits slow digestive system.

Supplements
Yucca extracts and digestive enzymes can be very helpful in controlling impaction from ingested hair, as well as maintaining an attractive coat.

Diet Precautions
Always have fresh hay available as a source of fiber. Rabbits under six weeks of age should not be fed fresh vegetables. You may witness your rabbit ingesting his/her feces directly from his/her anus. This is normal and helps the rabbit maintain gut florae and is necessary for intestinal health.

Feeding
Rabbits fed exclusively pellets may become obese. Hay should always be available at all times. Feed a variety of fresh vegetables – one cup to several cups daily on top of about a quarter to half cup of fresh pellets. Anything other than vegetables, hay, or pellets is a treat and should be fed sparingly.

Water Source
Water should always be available, mostly from a water bottle, and should be changed daily.

Grooming
Rabbits can be brushed to reduce the risk of impacted hair. Nails should be cut once a month – this can be done at home with proper instruction, or your vet or Wilmette pet can provide this service.

Oral and Foot Care
Rabbit’s teeth grow constantly, and they need sufficient wood chews to wear them down. A problem exists known as malocclusion, where if your pet’s teeth are not worn down, they may need to be cut – again, your vet or Wilmette Pet can do this for you – it is not recommended that you attempt to cut teeth yourself. Nails should be cut once a month.

Proper Handling
Pick rabbits up from above, as approaching them from the front can make nervous rabbits more defensive. Hold them by the chest and rump, or support the feet to make them feel safe and secure. Rabbits should be handled carefully to avoid damaging delicate spines. Keep close to the ground in case they try to hop out of your arms.

Habitat Maintenance
Litter box/soiled area of the cage should be changed daily. A full substrate change should be performed once a week.

Health Concerns
Malocclusion (the misalignment of teeth, as previously mentioned), the intestinal impaction of hair, and bacterial infection resulting in diarrhea and resulting dehydration are some of the most common concerns with rabbits.

...............................................

This post, Rabbit Care, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on November 16, 2011. Tweet This Post!

...............................................