Dogs: No pet should stay outside indefinitely. For dogs that spend time outside, provide plenty of water and a shelter
where they can get out of the wind.

As we prepare our cars for the cooler weather, be very careful to not leave any antifreeze accessible to the dog. It is both very tasty and very toxic to dogs and cats.

It’s getting darker earlier, so don’t forget to wear something reflective when taking Ramses for a walk.

Since autumn is the time when many people make home repairs and preparations for winter, it’s a good time to go over your dog’s equipment. Check their leashes, collars, and harnesses for wear and tear, replacing anything worn or broken. Check all fences and runs for loose spots or holes, before Wrigley gets out in really bad weather.

Fleas and ticks can be very active in the fall months, as they look for hosts to get them through the winter. Be sure to keep up your spot treatment, check for ticks after long walks, and wash bedding and vacuum pet areas frequently to stop them from wintering inside your house. See our complete series Understanding Pest Insects and Treating and Preventing Pests for more information.

One of the biggest changes for your dog, and a big challenge for you, is their new winter coat, as this is a time for them to shed their summer coat and grow a thicker one. There are a few things to do to help keep it under control and stop all the hair all over your house. Frequent brushing, especially with a de-grooming brush such as the FURminator, helps remove the loose hair before it falls out. Add fiber to their food, and digestive enzymes – the enzymes break them down any hair they swallow and the fiber helps push it out. For more info, check out our Preventing hairball care sheet here. Many of our customers will schedule a visit to their favorite groomer to have their dog’s coat blown out and cleaned up in preparation for the season.

The new season can be harsh on their skin and coats; Salmon oil, like Grizzly Salmon Oil is your best friend, as it helps sooth dry, irritated skin, and those Omega-3 fatty acids make their new coat beautiful.

Dogs are not the only animal friend sharing our lives. Here are some tips for the rest of our friends:

Cats: Outdoor cats will often climb into the motors of cars to stay warm. If cats tend to roam your neighborhood, bang on the hood or honk the horn before starting your car.

Don’t forget they’re shedding their summer coats, too, so add some fiber and digestive enzymes to their diet, and give the frequent brushing to help them shed their hair easily and to help prevent hairballs. They can also benefit from some salmon oil in their food. For more info, check out our Preventing hairball care sheet here.

Cats also face the same problems, especially with fleas. Be sure to use the appropriate treatment for you cat, as dog medications can be quite toxic to our feline friends. See our complete series Understanding Pest Insects and Treating and Preventing Pests for more information.

Bettas: While your little betta buddy has been doing great all summer, you may start to notice him slowing down and getting lazy. Adding a small, shatter proof heater to his bowl will help keep him warm and active – they are tropical fish and are healthier with the heat.

Small animals: If you keep your rabbit in a hutch outside, be ready to being them into a sheltered space, like a garage, when the weather turns bitterly cold. Provide plenty of hay and bedding for them to burrow into to stay warm. If you have a rabbit or guinea pig, be eco friendly by using their soiled bedding as mulch and compost. Wood bedding such as shredded aspen can be used as mulch, protecting plant’s roots. Paper bedding can be used as mulch or composted; rototilling it into the ground next year gives you great soil. You can soak soiled bedding in water overnight, strain, and then use to give plants their fall feedingof fertilizer, as it is loaded with nitrates and ammonia. It’s great for indoor plants, too.

Hedgehogs originated from the deserts and steppes of Africa, and tend to want to slow down during winter months. Unless they are properly fattened and prepared for hibernation, it can be dangerous for them to try to hibernate. Counter this by adding a reptile heat lamp to their cage.

Reptiles: This time of year many reptiles may slow down, eat very little, and sleep all the time. Reptiles can respond to the decrease in the amount and intensity of light by brumating, a form of hibernation. Like hedgehogs, unless they are prepared for it and fattened up, brumating can be dangerous, as they’re expending energy even as they are dormant, so unless you’re an experienced hobbyist, prevent them from doing this by increasing the wattage of all their heat bulbs. Make sure that they have been eating well and defecating normally.

Birds and parrots: For most birds fall is the second big molt of year, where new feathers grow and push out old ones. This is the time of year we hear how surprised Polly’s parents were when she flew right off their shoulders! Bring them in for a wing (and nail) trim before you get a surprise, too. Help reduce the irritation the pin feathers cause by misting your bird. It’s especially important to be sure their cage is out of any cold drafts.

The decrease in sunlight at this time of the year can be a downer for us, but imagine what it’s like for your tropical bird! Adding on a UV bulb in a dome can help regulate your bird’s mood and feeding schedule. It can help alleviate depression and regulate their mood, so if Nacho is not playing with her toys, consider bringing the sun inside. Placing the light on a simple timer is an easy way to make sure your bird gets plenty of those needed rays.

With a few special considerations, you and all your pets can safely enjoy what some feel is the
best time of the year.

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This post, Getting our pets ready for the colder months, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on October 3, 2018. Tweet This Post!

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This post, Top pet tips for surviving summer, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on June 8, 2017. Tweet This Post!

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FLUTD, formerly known as FUD, is one of the more common diseases seen in cats. Any cat can get it, but it does seem to be more common if the cat is older, neutered, over-weight, or eats a dry kibble diet.

Symptoms:

• Increased frequency of using the litter box
• Urinating outside of the litter box or in unusual places. This can be caused by pain and irritation that causes an urgent need to go and they cannot get to their liter boxes in time.
• Difficulty, straining, or pain when going to the bathroom, due to the inflammation.
• Over grooming and hair loss, especially around their perineum. Many cats will over groom and lick themselves as a way to deal with the pain associated with FLUTD.
• Blood in the urine. Blood in the urine may be microscopic (only detectable by your vet using tests) or may be more severe and obvious (you may see red discoloration of the urine).

Causes of FLUTD:

Bladder stones – These stones can form because of an imbalance in a cat’s pH and from a build-up of magnesium ammonium phosphate (struvite) and calcium oxalate crystals. This is less common in cats now, as most diets are formulated with limited magnesium and designed to produce acidic urine.

Bacterial infections – Bacterial infections causes a lot of inflammation but it’s relatively uncommon in cats, although it is seen more frequently in older cats.

Urethral plugs – A buildup of proteins, cells, crystals, and debris in the urine can build up and form a plug that cannot be passed. The severe inflammation from another issue can cause muscle spasms, which block off the urethra.

In rare cases, a tumor might be the culprit. It’s more common in older cats that have a history of inflammation and trouble urinating.

Idiopathic – Up to 60 – 70% of cats have no underlying disease to explain why they have problems urinating.

Diagnosis and Treatments:

Because there can be a variety of causes, diagnosis of FLUTD can be difficult. A vet will run various tests, including urinalysis, blood work, and x-rays. Treatment all depends on the cause: a diet that increases acidity can help dissolve some stones, surgery may be needed to remove stones or plugs, or medications, antibiotics and anti-inflammatories, may be proscribed. Getting a proper diagnosis and treatment is important, as FLUTD can be fatal in male cats.

Prevention:

Preventing urinary problems in cats is always much easier and cheaper than treating problems when they develop.  Some of the things you can do at home include:

• Feed small meals on a frequent basis.
• Provide clean, fresh water at all times.
• Provide an adequate number of litter boxes (usually one more than the number of cats in the household).
• Keep litter boxes in quiet, safe areas of the house.
• Keep litter boxes clean.
• Minimize major changes in routine.

For regular readers of our care sheets, it should be no surprise to learn that one of the best things you can do to help prevent FLUTD is by feeding a high protein, grain free, high quality diet, especially raw and canned foods. The extra moisture in these styles of food is important for cats, as they typically do not drink enough water to maintain a healthy urinary system. Check out this care sheet for more details.

In cats that already have FLUTD caused by stones, avoid fish in their diet. Salmon and tuna are common sources of struvite crystals, and can exacerbate the inflammation already present.

FLUTD and other urinary problems can be a source of major aggravation for both you and your cat. The good news is that it doesn’t have to be. A biologically appropriate diet is the foundation of great health for your feline friend. As always, stop by any time and talk about your cat’s nutritional needs with our staff!

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This post, FLUTD: what it is & how to prevent it, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on June 14, 2016. Tweet This Post!

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Cats are thought to have been domesticated from species living in western Asia and northern Africa. Cats are, originally, desert creatures, and typically do not have a big “thirst response”. While they do drink water, it’s usually not all that their bodies need. They evolved to obtain most of their moisture from their prey items. In the wild, rodents, lizards, and birds provide hydration, supplemented by drinking free standing water. Now look at our domesticated cats, keep indoors and feed a diet mostly of dry kibble. After all, we’ve always heard that dry food keeps a cat’s teeth clean and canned food makes their teeth get weak. But it turns out a lifetime of this diet can slowly dehydrate them, eventually leading to an older cat with those dangerous kidney problems.

There are several things that you can do to help prevent these problems later in life:

Use a cat water fountain. Cats are much more likely to drink water that is in motion – we’ve all seen cats drink from faucets. Moving water tends to feel colder, and cat drinking fountains have built in filters to help it stay cleaner than still, stagnant water. We love the Cat it Fountain; it’s a great way to increase their water consumption. Check it out here.

Place several water dishes around your house. Cats are more likely to drink when there are multiple sources. Wider water dishes can get your cat to drink more, as they hate to have their whiskers touching anything, even the side of their dishes.

Add water, or something tasty like low sodium chicken or beef broth, to their dry kibble. Allow it to sit for a few minutes for it to soften. The bowl should be picked up after a few hours to prevent the food from drying out and going bad. This is a good way to get fussier cats to eat, as it adds some flavor and the moisture releases the aroma of the food.

Better yet, switch them to canned food, as this contains higher levels of moisture. Dry cat food contains around 8-10% moisture content, while canned food can be as high as 80%. You do need to feed more than dry food, but this gives them the water how their bodies expect to get it. There’s another reason to go to wet food: Your cat’s teeth are actually sharp and angled, having evolved to shear meat, not flat to grind dry kibble. In fact, when you hear cats crunching their dinner, they are actually breaking up the kibble with the roof of their mouth. So it’s not only easier for them to eat, but it effectively gives them that vital moisture. For older cats, some people will even add extra moisture, water or broth, to their canned food to make it even soupier.

By far the best diet for your cat and hydration is raw food. This food is the closest thing to their natural diet. It has not been altered with heat or friction, which preserves the innate vitamins and minerals, along with essential amino acids and enzymes (processed kibbles have these added back to the food after cooking them out.) Two of our favorites are Stella & Chewey’s and Nature’s Variety.

Cats are about 60% water, and they must have continual hydration to maintain this level. Symptoms of dehydration in cats are lethargy, dry gums and eyes, and skin that stays peaked when you lift a fold. Severe dehydration is a matter for your vet to address, as intravenous fluids may be needed. Giving fluids in a more natural way can help keep your cat well hydrated and out of the vet’s office. Try offering water in a variety of ways; your cat will definitely let you know what they like!

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This post, Cats and hydration, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on June 14, 2016. Tweet This Post!

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So many of us start of the new year with one resolution: to lose weight. We know how unhealthy excessive weight is, and yet never consider what it does to our pets. The American Veterinary Medical Association estimates that about 40% of all dogs and 50% of all cats are overweight – that’s 28 million dogs and 40 million cats! Fluffy may look fat and happy, but obese pets have more health problems, from  cardiac and respiratory issues, and major problems with their joints, to diabetes. So this year, why not make a resolution to help your cat or dog slim down?

What is a healthy weight for your pet?

Various breeds have different normal weights, and it can depend on gender, too. It can be especially hard when we have so many dogs whose exact breed we don’t know. In addition to discussing your pet’s weight with your vet, you can also use these general guidelines to help determine is your dog is overweight.

1. Running your hands along your dog’s ribcage, you should be able to palpate the ribs covered by a thin layer of fat. Inability to feel the ribs is a sign of an overweight dog.
2. Looking at your dog from the side, you should be able to see the upward tuck of the abdomen. An overweight dog will have very little or no tuck.
3. Viewing your dog from above, there should be a moderate narrowing at the waist just past the ribcage. A straight or bulging line from the ribcage to the hips indicates an overweight dog.

It’s similar for cats:

Look down at your cat. You should be able to see a waist when you look down on it from the top, or when you run your hands from its ribs to its hips. Run your hand along its abdomen from its ribs to its pelvis and it should be indented. If you put your hands on the side of its chest, you should be able to feel its ribs without a thick layer of fat over them.

It’s a good goal, but how do we do it?

1. Begin by knowing: For one week, record everything you give your dog or cat: measure dry and canned food, all treats, even table scraps. This can help show you where/when you tend to over-indulge your pet, and ways to cut down. Want to go a step further? Figure out the calories you’re feeding. Add the calories from the dry and/or canned food (found on the packaging) to the calories of the treats. Discuss with your vet you particular pet’s caloric needs, and make the appropriate adjustments.

2. Make adjustments. Not every dog eats the same amount of food. More active dogs, or dogs that spend time outside in the cooler months, need more calories than a more sedate, indoor dog. Older dogs need fewer calories than healthy adult dogs, and puppies generally need more.

3. Limit treats: Often overlooked when considering your pet’s diet, treats can make a big impact on their weight. Those small bites can add up quickly! Ideally, treats should be less than 10% of your dog or cat’s total daily calorie intake. A few tips:

1. 1. Break up your treats into the smallest piece you can. Dogs will jump through a hoop for the whole bag of treats and they’ll jump through a hoop for the smallest crumb. They still feel special, and you make the treat last a lot longer.
   2. Use treats effectively. By only offering them only for good behavior and training, you reduce their caloric intake and reinforce positive behaviors.
   3. Feed pure, freeze dried meat treats. They are high in protein and have no carbs, ideal for your cat or dog.
   4. Go with a high protein, low carbohydrate food. Dogs and cats are carnivores, meaning they evolved to use protein and fat for energy. Simple carbohydrates break down to sugars in the digestive system, and sugar converts to fat. Decreasing carbohydrates reduces excess sugar, limiting fat production (and decreasing a most important source of food for cancer cells). Come by and talk with any of our staff about our choice of high protein, low carb foods such as EVO, Fromm grain free, Orijen, and California Natural grain free.

Feeding canned food? There are some great choices for weight loss in canned food. EVO canned cat and dog food is perfect for weight loss as it                                   is 95% meat.

Raw frozen food is gaining in popularity, since it is high in protein, low in carbohydrates, and is closest to their natural diet in the wild.

5.  Feed twice a day. Many people leave their pet’s food down all day; it’s easier, but some animals will continuously eat, past the point of satiety. Keeping the meals restricted to two meals not only restricts calorie intake, but gives them the chance to burn some off in between feedings.

6.Use a slow feeder. The brain releases “satiety” hormones that make you feel full about 20 minutes after beginning to eat. Use a Kong Wobbler or the Funkitty Egg-Cersizer instead of a feeding bowl. You place their entire meal in the toy, and, as they play with it, the kibble slowly drops out, a piece or two at a time. In addition to slowing down their feeding, which makes them feel more full with less food, it also gives them exercise, which burns more calories. A slow feeder also helps reduce indigestion and gas.

7. Fiber is weight loss’s best friend. Fiber helps with weight loss by helping one feel full. Fruitables Pumpkin SuperBlend Weight Loss supplement contains high level of fiber from pumpkin, oatmeal, and inulin. Replace up to 30% of their food with this tasty food to help them lose up to 2% per week.8. EXERCISE, EXERCISE, EXERCISE! It’s always the answer for losing weight. Including the dog on a short jog not only helps them lose weight, it’ll help keep you on your own health goals. Make a point to set aside some playtime with your dog or cat.  Playing with your dog can burn 115 calories an hour, better than 75 calories sitting on the couch. Playing with your pet is also a great way to de-stress and relax!

Reducing your dog or act’s weight is one of the best things you can do for their health. It’ll reduce wear on joints, reduce breathing problems, decreases the strain on their heart, and reduce the chances for diseases such as cancer and diabetes. It’ll also keep your best friend around a lot longer.

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This post, Your pet’s New Year’s resolution to lose weight, originally appeared on Wilmette Pet Center on January 6, 2012. Tweet This Post!

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